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Ines Papert, 2016 Banff Festival Speaker, Repeats Hard German Route

Inest Papert has repeated Scaramouche, an eight-pitch 5.13b/c up the west face of the Hoher Göll in the Berchtesgadener alps of Germany, with her partner Matthias Reiter. It took her nearly two weeks to work out. The recent press release said the route is considered one of the most technically demanding in Germany and the “first alpine 8a (5.13b) in the Alps.” She sent the route on Sept. 4 after battling wet weather.

Scaramouche was first sent in 1989 by Alexander and Thomas Huber and wasn’t repeated until 20 years later. The pitches breakdown to 5.13b/c, 5.12d, 5.12c, 5.11a, 5.13a, 5.12c, 5.11d, 5.12c and have tricky slab climbing, pumpy bulges and painful crimps. After her send, she said, “I have spent about 10 to 14 days in the route over the past years. I have cursed, doubted, and laughed. Seldom have I climbed a route that was as technically demanding. My greatest respect goes to Thomas and Alexander for their first ascent of this wall, at that time, in that style, in one of the most beautiful walls of our planet, in Berchtesgaden.” Papert will be presenting at the Banff Mountain Festival on Nov. 4, for more info see here.

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