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Injured Climber Rescued Off Forbidden Corner on Yamnuska

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Kananaskis Country Public Safety Section in the Canadian Rockies responded to a call last week after a male climber fell on the popular Forbidden Corner 5.9.

The climber fell about 10 metres and fractured his lower leg on the fifth pitch. The public safety specialists arrived with a helicopter and six professionals. After a recon flight, they attempted to heli-sling in to the route with two different length lines, but decided the winds were too strong.

They then ruled out rappelling down to the climbers and opted to climb up to them. As the rescuers climbed up, the injured climber managed to arrange an anchor and rappel down to the top of the fourth pitch where one team was waiting. Other rescuers were climbing behind with more equipment.

Rescue on Yamnuska's Forbidden Corner. Photo Kananaskis Country Public Safety Section
Rescue on Yamnuska’s Forbidden Corner. Photo Kananaskis Country Public Safety Section

Using two 100-metre ropes, the rescuers got the injured subject to the ground and the pilot returned to transfer him away.

The following is the analysis by the rescue team: “We are not entirely certain what caused the fall (loose hold or slip etc) but falls do happen from time to time. Yamnuska is a big, serious limestone cliff that demands a high level of competencies of climbers that challenge its lofty walls. In this instance, the subject fell, was injured and realized that although his injuries were not life threatening, he had sustained a legit traumatic injury and he needed assistance to get down.

“We at K-Country Public Safety would encourage all recreational rock climbers to be self aware of skill levels and abilities and make route choices commensurate with your skill level. This particular climbing party were highly competent but accidents do sometimes happen.

Rescue on Yamnuska's Forbidden Corner. Photo Kananaskis Country Public Safety Section
Rescue on Yamnuska’s Forbidden Corner. Photo Kananaskis Country Public Safety Section

“Take the opportunity to practice self rescue or better yet take a course on rock rescue skills from a qualified climbing school or certified guide and always consider the ‘what ifs’ when venturing out on the big stone walls of the Rockies. They are not trivial outings. Its imperative to place lots of protection and avoid run-outs whenever possible.

“Ensure that you have a local contact when planning your day and advise them when you expect to return. First aid kits, small headlamps and extra clothing, food and water have to be in your pack for you to be self sufficient.”

For a topo of Forbidden Corner see here and follow Kananaskis Country Public Safety Section on Facebook here.

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