Roger Schaeli had reported on Instagram that he, Thomas Huber and Stephan Siegrist have made the second ascent of Jeff Lowe’s Metanoia up the north face of the Eiger. Schaeli had climbed the original route up the wall a few days before.

Visit here for a story by Thomas Huber from the second ascent and visit here for an interactive topo of the route.

In 1974, Jeff Lowe made the first ascent of Colorado’s Bridalveil Falls, a cutting edge ice route at the time. In 1978, he reached the still-highpoint of the north ridge of Latok I with George Lowe, Michael Kennedy and Jim Donini.

In 1979, he made the first solo ascent of a new route up the south face of Ama Dablam. In Canada, he made the first ascent of the Grand Central Couloir on Mount Kitchener with Mike Weis.

Eiger with Metanoia topo line.

Eiger with Metanoia topo line.

In the early 1990s, Lowe spent nine days making the first ascent of Metanoia with no partners, bolts or fixed ropes. The 5.10 M6 A4 VII had been attempted over the years, but no one succeeded. It took three of the world’s leading alpine climbers to make their way up the massive route.

Lowe’s film Metanoia will be playing in Calgary and Canmore this year, stay tuned for details.


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