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Kevin and Tony McLane Establish Dragon Crack in Squamish

The strong father/son team of Kevin and Tony McLane can often be seen in Squamish. Kevin is the author of many great guidebooks to the area and to western Canada and Tony is one of Canada’s top all-round crack climbers. They recently established a new route at the base of the Sheriff’s Badge on The Chief. Their new route is called Dragon Crack and goes at 5.11d in two pitches with a 5.10d first pitch. It begins just right of Borderline, a six-pitch 5.10d up the Badge. Dragon Crack adds a hard start to a number of routes, including the four-pitch 5.12 classic called Daily Planet. It begins below the trees on the bottom left point of the Sheriff’s Badge in the photo below.

The Sheriff's Badge. Photo Matt Brooks
The Sheriff’s Badge. Photo Matt Brooks

Last year, Tony established an extension to Daily Planet called Daily Universe with Jorge Ackermann. It climbs through the big roof on the Sheriff’s Badge, a route that legendary Canadian climber Peter Croft is one of the finest new lines in Squamish of late. Croft was recently in Squamish and climbed Daily Planet with Tony to take a look at the big roof extension. Watch Jesse Huey on Daily Planet below by clicking on the clip.

Currently in Squamish… @jessehuey sending at the Climbing Academy. #arcteryx #arcteryxacademy

A video posted by Arc'teryx (@arcteryx) on

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