Kevin Wilson Repeats and Reports Hard Sends

Kevin Wilson reports about a handful of difficult new sport routes in the Bow Valley from the past few weeks, plus his impressive repeats.

Wilson, who spent the last decade living in LA and Tokyo, recently moved to Calgary where he has been climbing with Evan Hau.

Wilson reported that at the Coliseum, in Echo Canyon, Hau made the first ascent of an open project bolted by Matt Pieterson.

Hau thought the route was about 5.13c and called it Smooth Cat. “It is the left-hand, easier, variation of three open project lines bolted by Pieterson,” said Wilson.

Hau then sent the difficult right-hand finish, calling it Queen Bee 5.14b. “The third line, the direct, remains undone,” said Wilson.

Wilson had joined Bonnar McCallum on the first ascent of Highway to the Danger Zone, also in Echo Canyon, this summer. The route has a 5.12a slab, a steep 5.12b pitch with a couple small roofs and an overhanging face/arete pitch at 5.13c.

“I belayed him on the ascent and it was awesome,” said Wilson. “The route has a bit of everything and I think that the crux pitch is probably the nicest thing I have been on in the Rockies.

“Actually the crux pitch of ‘Highway’ is tied for the nicest route I have been on, which is Fit Bird 5.13d at the Coliseum.”

Wilson sent Fit Bird a few weeks ago with Raphael Slawinski belaying him. “It is a gorgeous route with incredibly varied climbing,” said Wilson.

At 24 years old, Wilson sent Bastard 5.13d in Frankenjura. Now 45, sending Fit Bird is certainly an impressive accomplishment.

“I did another 5.13d called The Power of One at Echo Cliffs outside of LA (NOT Echo Canyon above Canmore) a few months ago, but it is really only 5.13c,” said Wilson. “I did another 5.13c called Zero at Echo Cliffs as well.”

Wilson is not new to the Rockies. In 2006, he spent time working on the route what would become Yamabushi 5.12+ on Yamnuska with Will Gadd.

Despite early winter weather making an appearance in the Rockies, the south facing walls in Echo Canyon are warm enough to climb on as long the sun is shining. There are still plenty more days to send your 2015 projects.

– Be sure to follow along on Hau’s adventures on his blog here.