Kevin Wilson Sends First 5.14 with Repeat of Fit Bird Direct
Kevin Wilson of Calgary has made the fourth ascent of Fit Bird Direct 5.14a and his first of the grade. Fit Bird Direct 5.14a is Evan Hau’s four-bolt direct start to Matt Pi’s Fit Bird 5.13d. It was the hardest route in Echo Canyon until Hau established Dime Piece 5.14b and Queen Bee 5.14b. All three routes are on the steep Saddle Up wall at the Coliseum.
“Probably one of the nicest routes, if not the nicest, of the grade in the Valley,” said Wilson, who is in his mid-40s. “I snagged the second ascent after a key hold broke in the crux (Josh Muller got the third ascent a week before me). Evan Hau and Sonnie Trotter got the first and second ascents respectively.”
Wilson spent 13 days working the direct variation and five on the original Fit Bird. “I also made the probable second ascent of Hau’s Smooth Cat 5.13c in a handful of attempts,” said Wilson. “It seemed to be on the lower end of the scale, but it is a really cool route with a mini-roof, small crimps, big jug rest with no feet, and a really pumpy/tricky crux up high.”
At 24 years old, Wilson sent Bastard 5.13d in Frankenjura, his recent 5.14a send came over 20 years after. Echo Canyon has been busy with climbers this fall. The south-facing canyon is high on Grotto Mountain and warms quickly. Even on cold winter days, climbers will be up there sending.
The are no photos of Wilson om Fit Bird Direct, but below is one of Muller making the third ascent.
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