Lucie Hrozová Sets Standard With New M15 In Colorado

Lucie Hrozová has made the first ascent of Saphira M15-, which is now the hardest mixed route in the U.S.A.

On a recent visit to Colorado, Czech climber Hrozová won the Ouray Ice Fest and sent Mustang M14 on her first try. Hrozová has more M14 sends than most other top mixed climbers.

Saphira climbs for 55 metres and crosses Mustang before finishing on the upper ice of Octopussy. It was bolted a few years ago by Czech climber Standa Stenley. The route has been tried by many top climbers.

Watch this short clip from a few years ago about Hrozová:

This year, there has been a number of M15 or D15 climbs established. In Europe, Tom Ballard established one in the Dolomites. In Canada, Will Gadd established Instagrade in the Rockies and said it was his hardest send ever, but did not grade it. Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl made the first ascent of Insterstellar Spice at Helmcken Falls, but did not grade it.

We can only assume that both Gadd and Emmett’s route at in the M15 range.