Nalle Hukkataival has become the first climber to send these hard problems in Fontainebleau in one day, also known as the Black ED+ routes. There are 34 problems and styles range from steep to low angle with slopers and crimps.
Hukkataival needed only five hours and eight minutes to complete some of the most historic lines in France. After his link-up, Hukkataival wrote on Instagram: “The black ED+ circuit in Cuisinière is the hardest circuit in Fontainebleau and despite being decades old, word has it it’s never been climbed in a day.
“The fact alone that the very last boulder on the circuit is the infamous Slab Duel 8A [V11] has kept it an exclusive challenge. I found the circuit to be a real test of climbing skill – being strong will only get you so far. The boulders range between every style testing technique above all. Crimps, slopers, slabs, aretes, dynos, highballs, mantles – you have it all. Mental strength is needed on the highballs.”
It took Hukkataival a couple of days to locate, clean and project. The less popular problems were buried under moss and dirt. “At five hours eight minutes I got to the top of the last boulder with no skin to spare, already bleeding on my last attempt.
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“Feels great to complete something that I remember seeing in the guidebook and laughing at because it seemed so ridiculously hard. To top it off I nearly had the ‘perfect game’ falling just one time on Duel.” Watch short clip below by clicking on image.
Re-climbing some old classics here in Font! I've been getting psyched on the idea of trying to do the unclimbed black circuit in Cuisinierè. Duel (8A) the infamous slab took me years to figure out in typical Font style and now having learned the method it's hard to understand why. Duel is the very last boulder on the circuit so need to get it wired! #liveclimbrepeat @blackdiamond @lasportivagram