A group of Edmonton climbers recently completed a new route called Ay Mamasita! on Ashlar Ridge in Jasper National Park.
The all-bolted climb is 5.6 to 5.11 up the first seven pitches and then sustained climbing up the headwall for four pitches at 5.12.
Headwall pitches require thin technical moves on with wild exposure with 300 metres below you and will be a memorable route high in the mountains.
The whole route is 395 metres, 12 pitches and 5.12a/b. With only an hour approach from the parking lot, potential for hundreds of multipitch sport and trad routes exist on the wall.
One bonus is that it’s only 10 minutes away from Miette Hot Springs. “Ashlar Ridge one day may become the Gorge du Verdon for Edmonton climbers,” said Konstantin Stoletov.
Approach. Start at the parking lot ~2k past the view point. Walk towards the creek 20m, turn left follow the trail to the creek. After the creek crossing follow a good trail to the ridge (orange tape).
Start at a good ledge next to a little pine tree about 200m right of Good Intentions Bad Habits (a classic eight-pitch 5.11a sport route, more info here).
The pitch breakdown goes 5.7, 5.10b, 5.9, 5.6, 5.11b, 5.10a, 5.0, 5.11c, 5.11c, 5.11d, 5.12a/b and 5.3. You can hike off the ridge or rappel with a 70-metre rope. Brings 16 quickdraws and helmets.