New Alpine Route in the Cascade Range

Colin Haley and Sarah Hart have climbed a new route on a well-known peak in Washington’s Cascade Range.

Colin Haley has had a climbing-filled winter and spring with new routes in Patagonia, B.C. and now Washington. In 2013, Haley and Sarah Hart attempted to make the second ascent of the Polish Route on Colfax Peak‘s northwest face, but were turned around after one pitch.

In March 2015, Haley and Hart made the fourth ascent of the Polish Route and returned in April to climb a new route on the same face, Kimchi Suicide Volcano M5R AI4+.

Read Haley’s Detailed Story of The Polish Route

Haley wrote on his Facebook page, “Starting up the first pitch of Kimchi Suicide Volcano, the new route Sarah and I established yesterday on the north side of Colfax Peak, to the left of the Polish Route. It was awesome. Clearly I am currently obsessed with Colfax Peak, but I honestly think these three routes (Cosely-Houston, Polish Route, and Kimchi Suicide Volcano) are the highest-quality alpine climbs I’ve ever done in the Cascades.

“Not the hardest, not the most epic, and certainly not the biggest (it’s a pretty small face), but the highest quality. Some climbs in the Enchantments, on Prussik or CBR, are probably as high quality, but not alpine climbing in my mind (more like backcountry rock climbing).

“While the previous routes on Colfax are pure ice, ours is mixed. The volcanic rock is surprisingly solid and extremely featured – the walls are literally covered with incut jugs. Cracks are sparse, but good belays can be found. The difficulties were something like M5R AI4+.

Source: Colin Haley, Mountain Project