Tony McLane and Nathan MacDonald have climbed a new moderate on the North Howser Towers in Canada’s Bugaboos.

On July 28, the pair climbed up the Shooting Gallery and crossed the Seventh Rifle to gain new ground. The route follows a large prow between The Real Mexcalito and Spicy Beans. They originally climbed on the right of the prow up the obvious chimney, but left and went directly up through discontinuous crack systems and thin flakes. They did not use any bolts or pitons. The route went all free at 5.10. It took 19 hours from the Pigeon/Howser Col to Applebee Campground.

They named their new route Dodging Deanna. It adds 10 pitches to the North Howser. They recommend bringing a standard rack, including a number five Black Diamond camalot and a 70-metre rope.

Tony McLane is the son of Squamish pioneer and guidebook author Kevin McLane. Tony and Nathan climbed the impressive 1,000-metre North Pillar 5.11 A0 on Mount MacDonald days before reaching the Bugaboos.

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Dodging Deanna  Photo Tony McLane

Dodging Deanna Photo Tony McLane

 Photo Tony McLane

Photo Tony McLane

 Photo Tony McLane

Photo Tony McLane

 Photo Tony McLane

Photo Tony McLane

 

 


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3 Comments

  • joeandheidiwhite says:

    A moderate route…at 5.10? Wow. I suck. #5.10isTheNew5.8

    • jonathan__c says:

      I think 5.10 has been considered “moderate” trad for quite a while now, especially given the proliferation of big 5.11-5.13 trad routes over the past 10-20 years

  • Craig Slaunwhite says:

    Right on Tony & Nathan. Nice shots taken. Must have been fun