New Maritime Ice Climbs

Gripped Magazine January 3, 2014

January, 2014 – New routes climbed in Nova Scotia by Greg Hughes, Cory Hall, Luc Gallant, Matt Peck and Max Fisher. Click here for an ice climber’s guide to Nova Scotia.

Cory Hall climbing above the Atlantic Photo Max Fisher

Cape D’Or

Enter the Dragon WI5 130 m
FA Greg Hughes, Max Fisher & Matt Peck
Pitch 1- climb WI2 gully for 70 m
Pitch 2- climb steep sustained ice for 25 m, WI4+
Pitch 3- climb through wind formed gargoyles, pumpy and techincal, and tunnels to top 35 m, WI5

The Sweet Chimney of Love WI3+ M5 R 110 m

FA Max Fisher & Greg Hughes
Pitch 1- climb thin ice for 50 m WI3
Pitch 2- climb up into chimney about 90-100 cm wide. Squeeze your way up to easier ground. Limited pro. WI3+ M5R

Cape Chignecto

Maritime Alpinism WI4, 175 m

FA Max Fisher & Greg Hughes
Pitch 1- 60 m, WI2
Pitch 2- 60 m, climb gulley off to the left WI3
Pitch 3- 55 m, WI4 continue up ice bulges to a steep curtain

High and Wild WI4 175 m

FA Greg Hughes, Max Fisher & Mike Delaney
Pitch 1- WI2 60 m (same start as MA)
Pitch 2- climb up and left to a steep ice corner WI2 60 m
Pitch 3- climb the steep corner to easier ground WI4 55 m

St Martins