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North America’s “Highest Unclimbed Peak” is Climbed in Yukon

Two South American climbers are the first to stand on Malaspina 3,776 metres in the Saint Elias Mountains in Yukon.

Their 1,900-metre climb has difficulties up to 65 degrees. Natalia Martinez and Camilo Rada climbed the remote mountain as part of their Uncharted Project. The project has three previous summits to their credit, visit here for more.

Reports suggest the mountain was only attempt once, in 1976 by an Alaskan/Polish expedition. Rada wrote on the website ExpeNews that the mountain was likely the “highest unclimbed peak” in North America. The claim is yet to be verified.

From Aug. 13 to Aug. 16, Martinez and Rada climbed from their base camp to high camp and onward to the summit and back to base camp in 55 hours. There was high objective danger, as Rada reported to Planet Mountain, and they reached the summit at 2 p.m. on Aug. 15.

The first ascent route up Mount Malaspina in Yukon. Topo and photo by Natalia Martinez and Camilo Rada. Source ExpeNews dispatch.
The first ascent route up Mount Malaspina in Yukon. Topo and photo by Natalia Martinez and Camilo Rada. Source ExpeNews dispatch.

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