Adam Ondra, the popular 20-year old Czech climber, has become the second person to onsight 5.14d. The first was the 19-year old German, Alex Megos, who onsighted Estado Critico in Siurana, Spain. In our June issue, we reported Megos as saying, “It was exactly my style of climbing, overhanging on little crimps and no dynos.”
Before Megos climbed Estado Critico, Ondra was the climber people speculated would be the first to climb 9a (5.14d).
It was on La Cabane au Canada (Cabin of Canada) in Rawyl, Switzerland, that Ondra made his historical ascent. The 30m route was bolted by Didier Berthod and the first ascent was in 2006 by Lionel Clerc. It has been repeated by Pirmin Bertle and Tomi Nytorp.
Ondra was the first to climb 5.15c when he did his route, Change, in Norway. He is recognizable from the Reel Rock 7 film, where he went toe-to-toe with Chris Sharma, trying to climb La Dura Dura, which Ondra eventually sent at 5.15c.
He has onsighted a number of 5.14c, including Pure Imagination and Golden Ticket, both in Red River Gorge.
It will be exciting to watch Ondra and Megos, as the next grade to onsight is 5.15a.