Peter Adamson has made the first ascent of Temperance 5.13+ in New Brunswick, which is one of the most difficult climbs in the province.
“This one took a lot of effort, but finally sent our season-long project today,” said Adamson.
“Definitely felt like the hardest thing I’ve been on in New Brunswick.”
The hard line at Utopia Crag combines a flaring, overhanging chimney into technical face climbing. Adamson spent many hours working the beta for the burly chimney section into the upper face.
Utopia Crag is in St. George and was only recently developed. Peter and his brother Jon have developed most of the routes. Temperance was bolted earlier this year by the strong siblings.
“It took a lot of sessions, felt really hard,” said Adamson. “The last moves from the last bolt to the anchor are only 5.6 but took me about 20 minutes because I couldn’t raise my arms above my head. So pumped.”
Other hard routes in New Brunswick include Slam Piece 5.13d, Hades 5.13c, Drive Train 5.13c and Apophis.