German mountaineer Ralf Dujmovits has quit his Nanga Parbat winter attempt. This is the 18th winter attempt on the mountain that has not succeeded.
High avalanche risk is the reason for his decision. Two ice towers above 6,000 m are prone to serac fall activity. Dujmovits’ route is below the ice towers, including camp one at 5,500 m. “I had expected a certain level of risks climbing up the Diamir side in winter, especially on the Messner Route. But not these incalculable risks that I ‘m not willing to take. The serious accident on K 2 in 2008, when a part of the large serac above the bottleneck broke, was one of many examples of accidents by ice avalanches that could have been prevented,” he wrote in his update.
On January 2, he decided to abandon the climb, “After a careful weighing up of the risks, we had climbed up the glacier in deep snow for two hours again, I have decided to abandon the expedition. I’m leaving with nostalgia. It was a hard, but also wild and beautiful adventure.”
Other Expeditions on the Mountain
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The weather has improved on the other side of the mountain and work has restarted on the Schell route. Simone Moro updated his twitter with, “nice cold day. We had -20 at 8:00 am and much more during the night. Nanga Parbat is so big above us.”
The Polish team is also moving up the mountain.
Daniele Nardi will be reaching Nanga Parbat late January and will be attempting the Mummery Rib.
For more on Nanga Parbat in winter see here.