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Smith Rocks’ Classic Gets New Hardware

Good hardware is important for good climbing and many of America and Canada’s classic routes are due for an update.

In 1992, Jean-Baptiste Tribout, at the age of 31, established what was the hardest route in North America with his send of Just Do It 5.14c. Tribout started his new route spree in Smith Rocks in 1986 with his climb To Bolt or Not To Be, the first 5.14a in North America. In 1988, he established Smith Rock’s White Wedding and in 1991, he made the first free ascent of I am A Bad Man 5.14a.

Just Do It has been repeated countless times by climbers from all over the globe. Canadian Mike Doyle, who recently sent Necessary Evil 5.14c, has turned his attention to Just Do It and in doing so noticed the hardware needed to be replaced.

Jonathan Siegrist on Just Do It 5.14c.  Photo Tyler Roemer
Jonathan Siegrist on Just Do It 5.14c. Photo Tyler Roemer / Source Siegrist’s blog

“I went up Just Do It earlier this year and wasn’t that shocked to have to tighten most of the bolts. However, when I had to tighten some of them again just a couple tries later I realized some work was needed. This isn’t a unique problem in Smith Rock. The rock is soft here.

“Most of the old bolts were loose, but in good shape for being almost 30 years old. No rust or signs of corrosion. However, the holes the bolts were in were getting bigger.

“On the crux bolt (where you skip a bolt getting to it and skip the next one) the sleeve and cone were getting pulled out and the sleeve was almost half-an-inch out of the wall. Not deadly dangerous but a 10-metre fall would turn into 20-metre fall.

“A huge thanks to Ian Caldwell for coming out and suffering in the cold to rebolt this iconic route. I wager Just Do It is now one of the safest routes in the park and will be for years to come.”

The old bolts and the new bolts.  Photo Mike Doyle
The old bolts and the new bolts. Photo Mike Doyle

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