Stu Smith Climbs New 5.14 in Squamish Smoke Bluffs

Stu Smith has sent a new 5.14a/b in the Squamish Smoke Bluffs that he is calling Two Thumb Press. “This morning I woke up in Squamish with plans to give a real go at a new route project,” Smith wrote on social media. “Opening the van door I was greeted with my most hated substance, snow. A light fluffy dusting but enough to spoil my plans.” Over the past few years, Smith has established a number of hard 5.13 crack test-piece lines in Squamish.

“I checked the forecast, which said in a few hours the temps would rise above freezing melting all the snow and soaking everything,” said Smith. “The route I had in mind is so over hanging that the snow would not be an issue, but once it melted the route would be out for days.” Watch this short video below of Smith from last summer.

“I got on the rope and put my shoes on and began my rope-solo,” said Smith. “I whipped. Then I lowered down and pulled the rope and took of again and sent. After scrubbing that bit of rock over two years ago, I finally made it to the tippy top. Hangboarding works.

“The route is at the Anti-Gravity area in the Smoke Bluffs. It climbs a steep wall to join a traversing crack. It’s short, but damn good with movements I’ve never come across before. If you have a big reach, the grade will drop a letter grade or two, but if you are on the short side, I think you are out of luck.” It’s called Two Thumb Press because the route forces you to do two opposed thumb-gastons so you can bring you right foot up to you right hand.