Two New Hard Routes at Roche Lake and Cheakamus

During good weather spells, climbers have been sending old and new projects in Western Canada. At Roche Lake near Kamloops, Pat Campbell sent a direct start to a hard route that he bolted last year. This week, he ticked the new 5.12d after a few attempts. He wrote on Sendage.com, “Pretty awkward start on this route, jump and grab a great two-pad edge above the roof then turn your right hand palm down and press it out. After this initial boulder problem you get some easy moves until the final all points off dyno and another mantel! Only one route left for me at Roche and it’s pretty hard.”

Escaped the desert heat in Kamloops and climbed at Roche Lake today. Last year I bolted a new hard start to an existing line and haven't been out to try it yet this year. Excited for some colder temps to give it some serious attempts! #rochelake #shamans #teamevolv @evolvusa #cruzerlife #pleasedontstealmyprojectuntiligiveitsomeseriousattempts #outsideallday @oadclothing

A photo posted by Pat Campbell (@pattywc) on Jul 28, 2016 at 8:07pm PDT

In the popular Cheakamus Canyon north of Squamish, Toby Foord-Kelcey made the first ascent of Incandescence 5.13a at The Substation. The crux is a campus/heel-hook move Kecley says goes upwards of V7. It’s followed by a pumpy finish. “I had to train specifically for it but maybe strong folk will find it trivial.”