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Vikki Weldon Sends Hard Squamish Crack

Vikki Weldon has climbed her hardest gear climb to date with her send of Adder Crack.

On Fri. July 17, Vikki pieced together the difficult moves of one of Squamish’s 5.13a cracks called Adder Crack, and joined a small group of Canadian women who have sent a 5.13 gear climb.

The route was originally graded 5.13c after the first ascent by Hazel Findlay. Will Stanhope climbed a variation start at 5.12d and Marc Bourdon, who climbed it recently, called it 5.13b. Vikki said, “It’s difficult to grade because it’s a bit of a contrived start, and small hands help but I feel 13a is a fair grade.”

Vikki Weldon at the base of Adder Crack 5.13a before her send of the hard gear climb.  Photo Tom Wright
Vikki Weldon at the base of Adder Crack 5.13a before her send of the hard gear climb. Photo Tom Wright

In the past, Vikki has focused mostly on sport climbing. In 2013, she became the third Canadian woman to climb 5.14 and a year later she made the second ascent of the hardest route on the Rockies’ iconic Mount Yamnuska with her send of Blue Jeans 5.13b.

“I just started trad climbing seriously this year and really trying to take advantage of the amazing gear routes here in Squamish,” said Vikki. “I saw Adder Crack for the first time earlier this year during one of my first times up at the Long House. I was really intrigued by the line and became even more stoked when I found out Hazel Findlay did the first ascent. Climbing routes established by girls has a higher appeal for me for some reason lately. I got it in my head to try the line even though I had only sent a handful of 5.12 trad lines.”

Vikki attempted Adder Crack a couple of times in June before the heat wave put a hold on her project.

She returned with her friend Emilisa about a week ago and sent it twice on top rope. Convinced to try it on lead, Vikki roped up, but fell at the upper crux.

“On Friday I headed back up with my parents (after making them promise not to spaz when I tried it) and partner Tom,” said Vikki. “My warm up felt good, so I pulled the rope right away and it all just clicked. I’m so stoked and can’t wait for the next project!”

Vikki Weldon sending Adder Crack 5.13a.  Photo by her parents Andy and Laurie Weldon
Vikki Weldon sending Adder Crack 5.13a. Photo by her parents Andy and Laurie Weldon

– Follow Vikki Weldon on her Instagram @vikkiweldon.

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