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Five Fun 5.11 Sport Routes in British Columbia

British Columbia has thousands of routes to choose from that are found at dozens of crags. The main climbing areas are around Squamish and Penticton, but there are other great crags found all around. Here are five fun 5.11s in B.C.

Wings of Desire is the plumb 5.11b on the Great White Wall in Skaha. It follows a shallow seam to a crack and then up a series of features up a slightly overhanging wall. You have a small rest below a roof and then must power through to the anchors. It was first climbed by Dean Hart in 1990 and has been climbed on marginal gear.

Seb Beaudet on Wings of Desire. Photo BP
Seb Beaudet on Wings of Desire. Photo BP

Flashdance is a classic 5.11a at Begbie Bluffs near Revelstoke. Found on the steep Raptor Wall, it is likely the most climbed 5.11 in the area. It follows an esthetic line of jugs, you just have to fight the pump.

Rug Munchers is one of the best 5.11d sport routes on the West Coast. You climb past seven bolts up a steep wall with big holds and bigger moves. Many climbers first 5.11d and it’s not over until the anchors. Its popularity has greased up some of the holds, but it will always be a classic. First climbed by Dan Lillies in 2003.

Good Times at Fern Hill is a must-climb 5.11a that was first sent in 2007 by Peter Winter. Sustained throughout, it has a number of cruxes with a fun roof finish. The start has hard reaches that lead to technical sequences. From under the roof, it looks hard but just reach and swing.

Burning Down the Couch was one of the first 5.11d sport routes on the West Coast. It was first climbed by the strong Dave Lane in 1986 and remains one of the best routes in Squamish. Found on the Pet Wall, it climbs a vertical line with complicated sequences. As you get higher, the 14 bolts are more spaced so big falls can be had.

Greg Horvath on Burning Down the Couch. Photo Lauren M. (
Greg Horvath on Burning Down the Couch. Photo Lauren M.

 

 

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