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Routes at Lions Head’s Latvian Ledge Removed by Anonymous Climbers

“We got an email from ‘someone hiking at Lions Head’ who noticed that the Latvian Ledge routes were removed”

In early June, 2020, the hangers were removed from all of the bolted routes easier than 5.12 at the Latvian Ledge area at Lions Head. The area comprises the centre of moderate to easy climbing on the Niagara Escarpment’s most beautiful cliff and is popular with climbers from as far away as the American mid-west who flock there every weekend in the summer season.

Lion’s Head, Ontario

Burlington, Ontario climber Patrick Ryan, who visits the area several times a year, was shocked by the news. “We always go there. It’s the only place on the whole cliff and it’s breathtaking. It’s a fun scene. People share ropes and beta. Now I guess we can’t, unless someone puts the hangers back.” Others commented on social media that “it’s not your crag because you climb 5.12,”that the gear removal was “gutless” and “elitism at its finest” and that “the local economy could use the tourism” of moderate climbers.

The heavy use of the Latvian Ledge area, however, has led to significant erosion and the presence of a concentration of moderate climbers on a mostly steep and difficult cliff has irked some regulars. Even those who climb there frequently admitted that climbers in the area could keep a lower profile. For both reasons, the idea of removing the routes from the Latvian Ledge area has been mooted for years by Lions Head activists.

Lion’s Head has a high concentration of difficult sport climbs. Posts on Gripped’s social media channels reveal that some climbers believe that access to Lion’s Head, a single-pitch sport-climbing venue, should be restricted to experts. Posters expressed the hope that the removal of the hangers from the cliff, which was discovered in the 1930s by Roger Neave and has seen decades of development by climbers of varied abilities, would lead to the exclusion of moderate climbers. It “is not a place for 5.8 climbers,” (most of the 5.8s have now had the bolt hangers taken off) said one poster, and another suggested that it should be “a haven of hard routes,” where “novices should allow more dedicated climbers to enjoy their test-pieces in humble understanding,” and another climber said there is “nothing like trying to concentrate on a crimpy 5.12 when some dude is dangling and clawing.” Advice for those who had climbed there could be summarized by the comment that  they “can focus and maybe get there one day.”

At time of writing, the actors in the route removal remain anonymous. “We got an email from ‘someone hiking at Lions Head’ who noticed that the Latvian Ledge routes were removed,” says Randy Kielbasiewicz, co-chair of the Ontario Alliance of Climbers. “We asked someone to look, and they confirmed that it had happened.” Like many climbers, Kielbasiewicz was aware of both discussions about the removal of the routes and the sense that the high-volume of climbing on Latvian Ledge represented a risk to continuing access to Lions Head.

“It’s a touchy situation,” he says. “There’s no formalized climbing there. We continuously said it’s merely tolerated. The OAC will likely have conversations and look into what took place at Lions Head and formulate a collaborative and collective response.”

Kielbasiewicz emphasizes that the OAC “represents all climbers equally,” citing the extensive bolting of Rattlesnake Point in 2019 to provide a rich resource for moderate climbers, but also says that “climbers have to realize that we have to give things up and in return we get something back.” Although the OAC was not involved in the Latvian Ledge caper, it is anticipated that the closure of some high-use areas to restore the environment will become a regular feature of negotiations with Ontario climbing area land managers.

For now, moderate climbers should seek other venues on the northern Escarpment, like Metcalfe Rock, the Swamp and Old Baldy. Be sure to follow the Ontario Alliance of Climbers on Instagram for more updates.

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ACCESS UPDATE: Grey County has notified the OAC in response to our inquiries that they are now welcoming visitors to their outdoor areas! Grey Sauble has also confirmed that rock climbing is no longer prohibited by Provincial Order.  With this news, we are happy to announce that climbing access is now open at Metcalfe, The Swamp, and Old Baldy, without any travel advisories.  Please check our crag status document for updates. Link in Bio. The North Bruce Peninsula, where Lions Head is located, has also officially announced it is welcoming visitors!  If you choose to climb there please be mindful that Lions Head is an advanced crag and access there is extremely sensitive.  The OAC has been informed of the temporary removal of all moderate Latvian Ledge routes for the purposes of rehabilitation.  These routes represent the bulk of moderate routes at Lions Head.  Please ensure your plans do not require these routes to be available, and remember that top roping at Lions Head is not permitted. It may be difficult to secure overnight accommodations at this time as many campgrounds are not yet open, so plan ahead before you go.  Car camping is not allowed and people caught doing so will be ticketed. It is important to remember that although the province is beginning to open up again, COVID-19 still poses a serious threat to smaller communities.  If you choose to climb, it is important to plan your outings responsibly.  Take all necessary precautions, follow our guidelines on how to climb during this pandemic, and enjoy some good weather! #ontario #access #climbing #rockclimbing #staysafe Iconography provided courtesy of @michyllica

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