Sonnie Trotter takes us to a secluded crag in Squamish for a look at his route The Battle of Evermore 5.14. 

Battle of Evermore
(First appeared on

By Sonnie Trotter

article continues after advertisement

It’s been a whirlwind for me this year.  My summer was filled with great guiding experiences, climbing, and establishing new routes.  I put up so many first ascents it was hard to keep track of.  Often times I had moved on to something else before I could document the climbs from the week before.  Squamish is booming with new route activity, and we are in the golden age of it all.  There were no less than six new crags discovered this year and I tried to climb at all of them, yet, to no avail.  The ones I did make it to became an obsession.

I made some headway on the Prow Wall with Gold Rush, a six-pitch 5.13a, and over at Quercus Cliff, with a single pitch 5.13c called Nothing in Moderation, however, the route that I am most proud of climbing is called the Battle of Evermore.  It’s a 65 foot long 45 degree overhanging double arete that I graded 5.14.  I climbed the route on the first day of September I believe, just as warm summer temperatures were beginning to drop.  It was an extremely rewarding climb for me, not because it’s hard, but because it’s so unique and beautiful.  I promise that there is no other climb like it on the planet.

There’s never one move that’s particularly hard, it’s just that it all adds up and you never get a rest.  And where else do you get to pinch tufa like feature’s on granite?  This section leads you into a steep double arete sequence which feels like trying to haul a heavy refrigerator full of beer up a flight of stairs,  it’s definitely a battle.  The climb is then capped by a stunning deadpoint to a hero jug at the lip of the overhang.  It’s an incredible feeling to latch that hold and let your feet swing out over the open expanse.

This route will forever be remembered for me as a bit of a battle, especially because I always tried it during hot summer temps, and because it’s a bit of a mission to get to.  But, it’s all worth it when you think that you get to be the first one to unlock such wild and crazy sequences.  This was a process I enjoyed thoroughly, and I know that this type of creative problem solving will carry over to other aspects of my life, now and in the future.  I hope others will get a chance to climb the route as well, and enjoy the mystery of the moves for themselves.  The Battle of Evermore was just that, and now it’s time to focus on other things.

Sonnie Trotter on Battle of Evermore  Photo Rich Wheater

Sonnie Trotter on Battle of Evermore Photo Rich Wheater