Big Dyno Start to New 5.14+

Raw footage of Jernej Kruder on his new 5.14c, check out the dyno off the start.

From Kruder’s blog: In 2011 I bolted the first route in local crag Sopota. It was the most obvious line and in the fall, I managed to do the first ascent. So we got first, very hard route, named The secret, 5.14b. One year later, we bolted four more lines. For one we were hoping it’s gonna be easier one and the other 3 looked really hard. So Izi were trying his project and I was trying mine. I couldn’t solve the first crux, but I was able to do the moves in upper part. First few moves were so hard, that I would grade it as a V13 boulder problem.

I was trying very hard, but I couldn’t connect upper part either. So unfortunately the next year, I rebolted first two bolts and made it more possible. I believe, the a new start is harder for some people, cause you only have to do one really big dyno. If I compare it to some V12 dynos in Rocklands, I would say, this one might be even harder. So you can still try the harder version, if you want. I was preparing for the World cups, later I was competing so unfortunately I didn’t have so much time to work only on this project. After bouldering season I had more time and I came quite colse to it. And again, I had a battle with time, cause I left to Rocklands in July. I came back very tired, injured and fat. So I spent all the fall in Mišja peč to get some endurance and lose some weight. Again, this spring I had to prepare for the World cups, so I only spent few days in it.

Just one day, before I went to first World cup in China, I fell on the very last hard move. After that I only visited it once, but conditions were really bad. And finally, on June 15, 2014. I went with our team coach Roman and few friends and I managed to send it first try. I can’t describe my feeling, but I can say I felt pretty awsome, when I realised, I finally made it.

Cause of the constant battle with time, I named it In Time. I personally grade it 5.14c/d, but I know this route is very specific and for a lot of route climbers almost impossible, so maybe 5.14d. Maybe I’,m not realistic, so feel free to upgrade it, or just tell me that’s all just bull shit and it’s just another normal 5.14c (I spent at least 100 tries in it).