Ice Climbing Season Game On in Canadian Rockies

It’s that time of year again, when rock climbers are still getting up sunny warm south faces in the Rockies and ice climbers are searching for early season north-facing drips. As a result of the heavy rains this summer, it seems there is already plenty of ice to climb.

In Kananaskis Country, Maarten van Haeren, Sebastian Taborszky and Paul Taylor climbed the 400-metre VSOP WI5+ M4 in Ribbon Creek. The strong trio bivied and reported good conditions. The route can be too dangerous later in the season due to avalanche potential. In the Ghost, Steven Kovalenko, Maurice Perreault and Chris Meginbir climbed a potentially new monster WI5+ line. Other climbers have been out searching and found popular routes freezing up. Use #CanadaIce or #GrippedMagazine and we will include your shots in our regular ice updates for 2016/17.

Found a possible unclimbed 5+ gem in the Ghost thanks to the tireless efforts of Maurice Perreault – great day out with the boys @devils_head_coffee #ice #iceclimbing #climb #climbing #ascensionfitness #training #winter #firstascent #ghostriverice #iceclimbingimages #grippedmagazine #canadianrockies

A photo posted by Steven Kovalenko (@kovy3986) on Oct 28, 2016 at 7:27am PDT

The new Drive In dry-tool crag has nearly 10 routes, but is closed during the week due to ongoing construction in Jura Creek. The closure will last until the end of the year, but will be open on weekends. The Playground dry-tooling area has been busy most days. Remember to check avalanche conditions and ice reports online. To avoid line ups, write the name of the route you are intending to climb on your back windshield if possible.

Yamada Toshiyuki leading Mark Bramble's latest route at the Drive In named Jackie Brown (M7?). The route is still under construction and and missing the first bolt so we stick clipped the second with the new Edelrid Ohm or Toshi could have claimed the first send. The Drive In remains closed midweek due to construction and I hope everyone honours this request so we don't lose access to this great new crag. @peakstratagem

A photo posted by Kurt Morrison (@kurtmorrison) on Oct 26, 2016 at 9:40am PDT