Bürser Platte, Voralberg, Austria: Italian climber Jacopo Larcher has made the third ascent of Beat Kammerlander’s Prinzip Hoffnung, 5.14a. Kammerlander bolted it in 1997, but in 2009, at the age of 50, he decided to remove the bolts and climb it with trad gear.
The first eight metres have no protection, but the pro improves about mid-route, there’s a cam that protects you if the three nuts at the crux pop out.
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Source: Barbara Zangerl