The Bugaboos are home to dozens of world-class alpine granite lines, one of the most-climbed is the North East Ridge of Bugaboo Spire.

The ridge was first climbed in 1958 by Dave Craft, David Isles, Richard Sykes and John Turner; Joe Buszowski and Bernhard Ehmann made the first winter ascent in 1985. The route gained popularity after its inclusion in Steck and Roper’s Fifty Favourite Climbs in North America. Known for benighting (forced to spend the night because of poor judgement) about half the parties who attempt the route, the 5.8, 12-pitch route is often underestimated. It requires a strong party, as the route is only half the climb, to descend you must traverse Bugaboo Spire and down-climb he Kain Route. One of the finest alpine rock routes at the grade, a must-climb.

For more info on the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire, see here.

Bugaboo Spire and its spectacular NE Ridge seen from the col.

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Noel Gingrich on the NE Ridge  Photo Pullan

Noel Gingrich on the NE Ridge Photo Pullan

Noel Gingrich nearing the top of the NE Ridge, splitters!  Photo Pullan

Noel Gingrich nearing the top of the NE Ridge, splitters! Photo Pullan

Bugaboo Spire’s East Ridge from Mark Smiley on Vimeo.


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