El Capitan 1969
We were just a couple of twenty-year-olds from Squamish. We could do this, Couldn't we? The Nose was one of the biggest climbs of its type in the world in 1969 and at 31 pitches, two or three times longer than the longest climb we had done. It was big, psychologically and physically.
Bolting Is Not a Crime
Where does a climber's legal responsibility start and end when bolting new routes or updating old hardware?
Battling With Turret’s Syndrome
Part of a new generation of bold Canadian climbers, Will Stanhope and Andrew Boyd risk it all and bag a free ascent on the South Face of the Turret in the Adamants.
Northern Faces - Knut Rokne
We head to the Calgary Climbing Centre, where Rokne is head coach for a dedicated team of young climbers. For a number of years, the CCC youth team has trained twice a week in the wee morning hours, and while this may not be the most ideal time to handle twenty or so hormone infused teenagers, Rokne has stepped up to the challenge year after year.
Think and Climb Hard - The five habits of successful climbers
I had busted my chops all year, training, climbing, dieting and strategizing, and I was running out of time to hit my goal of red-pointing 5.13a. The season started off strong with some 12+ sends including a 13a the year before, but I needed consistency.
Barry’s Rockies Top 10 Fat Ice Moderates
How does one decide on the top 10 fat ice moderates in the Rockies? For me, moderate is WI 4 + at the most. Next, I wanted to get some geographic representation from where I've climbed and lastly I wanted the climbs with the best stories. Here we go.
The Climbing Life
In 1975 the best rock climbers in North America were just starting to break into the 5.12 grade. That level of difficulty may not seem like a big deal today, especially at sport crags, but when you strip out the astonishing material and innovative changes to climbing gear, shoes, and training since then, 5.12 had sharper teeth than it may seem.
The Utah Hills Sport Climbing
You never know where a road trip may lead you. One day you could be sucking back ice-cold Ale-8's in the Red River Gorge, and the next day find yourself westward-bound on I-40.
Worth the Sacrifice
Balancing life with either a kid or a non-climbing partner and climbing can be a never-ending conflict. Be it trying to hang on to a relationship on the brink because of one's never ending affair with the rock or finding a balance between parenting and climbing. The majority of people have an issue with it, saying, come on now- is climbing really that important?
Squamish’s Hidden Classics
The excellent rock at Squamish attracts climbers from all over the world. An influx of visitors during the peak season, often results in crowded routes. You still can find many uncrowded and lightly travelled classic routes. This is my top ten of Squamish's hidden but classic lines...