Battle over Mont Blanc’s Status
It isn’t surprising that two towns, Italy’s Courmayeur and Chamonix in France, are applying to have the area’s alpinism designated under the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List. This designation, now shared by such treasures as Viennese Coffee House Culture, Spanish Human Towers, The Argentine Tango and Czech Falconry, protects and recognizes crafts and activities rather than places.
Harry Edwards Guns Down 5.14c in a Supportive Family Context
“As a parent of climbing children, my worst fear isn’t pedophiles, ..it’s fixed quickdraws.” So writes prosecutor and father of 12-year-old Harry Edwards, who, in April, climbed Southern Smoke 5.14c in Red River Gorge Kentucky. His family blog is entitled “Gunning for 5.15 in a Supportive Family Context.”
Newfoundland and Labrador and Southern Alberta Sections of Alpine Club of Canada First Anniversary
It’s the anniversary of two new section of the Alpine Club of Canada, Canada’s National Mountaineering club: The Southern Alberta and Newfoundland & Labrador sections.
Megos ‘s Classified first Ascent in Frankenjura
If you’re going to do a first ascent, make it a big one. That would seem to be the policy of Alexander Megos 19-year-old German sport climbing phenom who also made the first onsight of a 9a (5.14d) route. His very first new route, Classified 9a+ (5.15a) is on one of the shallow pocketed, technical limestone walls of Frankenjura, and has seen attempts by both Christian Bindhammer and Markus Bock. After one attempt a day spread over three days, Megos sent the route.
The 2013 Squamish Mountain Film Festival
The 2013 Squamish Mountain Film Festival runs from July 17-21 and hosts a variety of activities including climbing clinics, a trade fair, equipment demos, parties and of course a mountain films.
Everest: Two Solitudes
The way that the events played out on Everest on the last days of April is now well enough known. Three western climbers, Uli Steck (Switzerland, Simon Moro (Italy) and Jonathon Griffiths (UK) would attempt a route described on climbing.com by editor of the American Alpine Journal Dougald Macdonald as “a major development in Everest’s climbing history, particularly if they succeed in pure alpine style, without supplemental oxygen.” After an altercation with the Sherpas who were fixing lines above Camp Two, in which there was shouting and disagreement, the Sherpas descended.
Job Opening: Gripped Magazine Editor
Gripped, Canada's climbing magazine is looking for a new editor.
Climbers Attacked on Everest
The famous alpinists Ueli Steck and Simone Moro along with climber/photographer Jonathan Griffith were attacked by a group of around 100 Sherpas after the trio had an altercation with a team of Sherpa climbers fixing ropes on the mountain.
Broken Bolt Hanger Creates Fixed Gear Concerns
Someone posting on the popular climbing website rockclimbing.com claims to have found a cracked bolt hanger on a relatively new sport climb.
Video of the Women’s Qualifiers at the IFSC Climbing World Cup in Kitzbuehel
Check out this video of the Women's Qualifiers at the IFSC Climbing World Cup in Kitzbuehel.