James Pearson recently climbed Carbondale Short Bus 5.14 in Indian Creek for the route’s possible third ascent. It was first climbed in 2012 by Hayden Kennedy and is protected by some of the smallest cams on the market. The crux is a dyno from the crack to a sloper below the anchor. Watch Kennedy’s sent below.

First envisioned over a decade ago by Nick Martino and Eric DeCaria, the route became popular after being projected by Martino in the film First Ascent. The gear you need is: three 000 C3, two 00 C3, two grey TCU, two purple TCU and one blue TCU. Watch the clip from First Ascent below.

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In 2015, Matt Segal made the second known ascent of the run-out crack. He told Rock & Ice after his send, ““I found a little different gear beta than Hayden, which made me more comfortable, but I would definitely call it an R route.” Pearson’s 2017 ascent is the third known send of Carbondale Short Bus.


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