End of Winter V15 Bouldering News From Around the World
It's the first day of spring, here's some V13 to V15 sends that went down in March (before we all started to stay at home)
It’s the first day of spring, which usually means most climbers would be getting ready to hit the road for a trip soon or start working on their project from last year, but instead we’re all staying home during the coronavirus outbreak.
Staying home is highly recommended right now, because you get to train, be around family and contribute to not spreading the virus. Over the past few few weeks, before the world went on nearly full lock-down, a lot of hard boulders were climbed.
Below are some of the highlights from the world of bouldering from the end of winter. We have a stay-at-home training routine for those of you who need some motivation here.
Alex Puccio, who has climbed a number of V14 problems, ticked her 32nd V13 with Jeremiah Low in Coal Creek. She said, “Haven’t been climbing or training all that much over the last three weeks so I was pleasantly surprised with a cheeky little send today on this boulder. Had to try a bit harder than wanted, but pulled it out I guess.”
Daniel Woods repeated Jimmy Webb’s Primitivo V15 in Valle Bavona. “We setup the lights and pads, played some Rage Against the Machine (Guerrilla Radio), and I fired the line first try,” he said. “It began to rain as I topped out, so I’d say that the timing was perfect.” More on 8a.nu.
Carlo Traversi, who sent his first V15 in 2011, has now climbed eight after his climb of Dreamtime in Cresciano. “Dream come true. The very best boulder imaginable and something I’ve wanted to do since I started climbing. Bummed to be cutting the trip short, but at least the last ditch effort before heading to the airport paid off. Plenty more to do around here. Be back when the world is out of crisis mode.” More on Instagram below.
Matt Fultz recently sent his ninth V15 with a tick of The Kingdom in Brione in only one visit. “For now the travel ban has me here in Europe for another 30 days at least,” he said last week. “So I’ll be trying lots of projects here in Switzerland, and attempting to stay healthy.”
Paul Robinson made the second ascent of REM in Cresciano, giving it a personal grade of V14. “For me I think it’s important to keep grades consistent around the world. When I think of 8C+ [V16], I think of the absolute hardest boulders in the world, climbs like Hypnotized minds, Burden of Dreams (which I have not tried), etc. REM just does not feel close to that range to me. I was able to do the crux move on my second try and climbed the boulder in a few short sessions. You can only try it four or five times in a session because it is so sharp.”
Stefan Scarperi climbed his first V15 with Bügeleisen sit in Maltatal, a route that Nalle Hukkatival put it up in 2014. And Michael Piccolruaz sent his second V15 with Sierra Madre in Zillertal.
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