Kootenay Canaleta is New Mixed Route on Gimli
The new 350-metre M5 WI4 mixed route climbs the north face of the classic peak
Kootenay Canaleta is a new 350-metre M5 WI4 mixed route on B.C.’s famous Mount Gimli in Valhalla Provincial Park. David Lussier and Jen Olson made the first ascent earlier this week. Olson has established routes internationally and across mountain ranges in Canada.
The aesthetic Kootenay Canaleta climbs the north face of Gimli and follows rock, ice and snow to the summit. “David graciously let me lead the first pitch which had the most ice climbing on it,” said Olson on Instagram. “He then gracefully and bravely ascended a classic heady thin ice flowing over rock pitch that led us into the main weakness of the face.”
The two top climbers then rappelled the route off slung horns and chockstones. Olson said the route reminded her of the classic Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy in Patagonia, which she climbed a few years ago.
Mount Gimli Routes
East Ridge 3rd class
Dark Side of the Moon 5.10b/c
North Face Arete 5.10
Rumble in the Jungle 5.10b/c
Sailor Jerry 5.10b/c
Slave to Gravity 5.11+
South Ridge 5.9
Space Jam 5.11d
Lussier has likely spent more time in Valhalla Provincial Park than any other rock climber over the past decade. Originally from Sherbrooke, Quebec, he’s now based in Nelson. He once rode a bicycle 85 kilometres from Nelson to Valhalla, climbed Gimli and rode home in under 24 hours. Be sure to follow Lussier on Instagram below.