Roger Schaeli, one of the world’s leading alpinists, has made the first ascent of Airplane Mode on the north face of the Eiger.
He climbed it ground-up in 2017 and 2018 with a number of partners and sent it in the fall of 2018.
This is the third new route he’s climbed on the wall, including Magic Mushroom 5.13 and Odyssee 5.14.
Tried hard to send my new Eiger first ascent “Airplane Mode” around 8a+ / 300 m with a good mix of trad & Bolt’s! The crux-pitch 40m is to climb with two Bolts and the rest on Gear ! Already psyched to go back next Saison 😊🧗♂️⛰! Pic: Robert Bösch Thanks @daniel.mader for the patient belay! #airplanemode #eiger #firstascent
He was joined by Dimitri Vogt, Mayan Smith-Gobat and Bernd Rathmayr during his trips up to establish the line before sending it.
Shaeli told planetmountain.com, “The route climbs a line to the right of Deep Blue Sea along the eye-catching sun and shadow arête on the Geneva Pillar. Straight thought the huge bulge, where the climbing is absolutely awesome.”
It has some bolts and lots of difficult trad with a 40-metre crux section that clocks in at 5.13b/c.