Mount Temple has long been the scene of bold ascents, from first ascents on the north face to fast and light free solos on many of the demanding climbs.
Quentin Lindfield-Roberts has made a solo ascent of Striving for the Moon VI WI5/6 on the east-northeast face. There are rumours the route was soloed back around Thanksgiving in 2002, but not confirmed.
The big route was first climbed in 1992 by Barry Blanchard and Ward Robinson and wasn’t repeated until 2004 by Scott Semple, Greg Thaczuk and Eamonn Walsh in a 36-hour car-to-car push.
Three years ago Chris Willie, Frank Cox and I attempted Striving for the Moon on the E. Face of Temple… since then I’ve always had it in my mind to come back and solo the route – which I did yesterday. Here’s Chris rappelling off the crux pillar on our descent three years ago. – @arcteryx @petzl_official @lasportivana
Striving for the Moon climbs a prominent gully system for 1,000 metres to the Black Towers on Temple’s East Ridge, followed by another 600 metres of climbing to the summit.
Joe Josephson reported about the first ascent of Striving for the Moon in the 1993 Canadian Alpine Journal: Several pitches higher take a right-hand fork in the gully up some thin ice. Take the obvious traverse line around the buttress back into the left-hand gully, thus avoiding unformed ice on the left. Bivi sites can be found by traversing quartzite ledges.
“In good style the first ascent party continued up the East Ridge to the summit under high winds and a full moon – “very Himalayan.'”
Blanchard and Robinson spent a night on the route at the Black Towers and from there it took them 24 hours to return to the car. They made the first ascent in December that year.
Lindfield-Roberts used Alik Berg’s trail in and off Temple. Berg had soloed a potentially new route up the gully right of Striving for the Moon the previous day.
Lindfield-Roberts, Juho Knuuttila and Tim Banfield will travel to Chamlang in the Hongu Valley of Nepal in the fall of 2019. They received the John Lauchlan Award for the trip.
“Our primary objective is to attempt the unclimbed 2,000-metre north face of Chamlang (7,319 m). Chamlang’s hulking massif towers over the surrounding mountains in the remote Hongu Valley. It has been climbed five times via the South Ridge and the West Ridge but has yet to see an ascent of the north.”
Lindfield-Roberts is no stranger to bold alpine climbing, last year he soloed Grand Central Couloir V M5 on Mount Kitchener in the Rockies and made the first ascent of The Devil’s Reach Around V M6 5.10 on the east face of Chacraraju Este (6,001 m) in Peru with Berg.
Questing through a sea of granite and snow. @alikberg finishes off the 'reach around traverse' on our route on Chacraraju Este. The cliff band underneath the traverse was one of biggest question marks for the route and the traverse unlocked it! We were pretty stoked when we saw snowy ledges! – @arcteryx @lasportivana – #climbing #alpineclimbing #cordillerablanca #peru #huaraz