Older Articles

Words with Author of ‘Paul Preuss: Life and Death at the Birth of Free-Climbing’

Preuss was one of the most bold free-soloists of all time

The Stories Behind Some of My Route Names

Nearly every climbing route name has a story behind it

Megawatts is Fun Eight-Pitch Bolted 5.8 in Southern B.C.

Megawatts is one of the best climbs in B.C. you probably haven’t climbed yet. At 280 metres, it’s one of […]

Dealing with Death in the Mountains

Last week, three of the world’s best climbers died in an avalanche on Howse Peak on the Icefields Parkway. It […]

David Lama and Partners Missing in Rockies Avalanche

David Lama, Hansjorg Auer and Jess Roskelley are reported as missing in the Canadian Rockies. The three top climbers were […]

New Bold Alpine Route up East Face of Fay in Rockies

It’s the complete direct finish to a route that was started over 30 years ago

Spring Tips to Not Die or Get Tick Bites

Spring means rock climbing season in Canada and there’s already been climbers out in Squamish, the Bow Valley, the Niagara […]

Let’s Not Call it the (Name Has Been Changed*) Anymore

Someone asked me the other day if I had climbed the Squaw’s Tit and it seemed so bizarre that folks […]

Be Safe in the Mountains in 2019, They’re Dangerous

Reinhold Messner, one of the best mountaineers of all time, once said, “Mountains are not fair or unfair, they are […]

I Lived in a Van Down by the River

I lived in a van and I’d do it again. I spent most of my nights parked along the Bow […]