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Andy White Talks About the Boom in Okanagan Bouldering

Okanagan bouldering is on fire. Not in the literal sense, like the 2003 inferno that raged through the Boulderfields region. Still, the bouldering scene in BC’s Okanagan Valley is heating up. This year’s Rock the Blocs Boulderfest in The Boulderfields is undoubtedly an indication of the region’s growing popularity.

With over 200 participants, some of the strongest boulderers in Canada on hand, the hardest lines sent in the event’s history, terrific reviews, an electric, positive vibe as always, and rock and lines that didn’t disappoint, Rock the Blocs seems to be a reflection of the fact that the Okanagan is now a main player on the Canadian, or for that matter, North American bouldering stage.

Mark Derksen on Heart of Darkness. Photo Ben Haley
Mark Derksen on Heart of Darkness. Photo Ben Haley (@letoitben)

Even just a few, short years back, good bouldering in the Okanagan Valley seemed like little more than a myth. Since that time, however, an incredible rate of development, promotion, confirmation of the region’s quality rock and problems, an inviting and positive scene, few crowds, and relative freedom have all resulted in the Okanagan luring climbers from around the world, and more recently, some very strong visitors who are making their way to the region more regularly.

Overall, the Okanagan bouldering scene, stretching from Vernon in the north to Okanagan Falls in the south, now possesses roughly 2000 problems in about 20 different areas. The rock is incredibly diverse throughout the valley and it’s not difficult to sample grainy granite on the beach followed shortly by incredibly featured, steep gneiss in a massive boulder field. Established lines in the valley run the range from V0 to V13, and some of the visits by strong, traveling climbers in the last year or so confirm that the projects are good and hard enough to raise the bar higher.

Alyssa Weber on Friends with Benefits. Photo Ben Haley
Alyssa Weber on Friends with Benefits. Photo Ben Haley (@letoitben)

Add to the mix the fact that fresh, new, quality lines of almost every grade seem to be added to Okanagan bouldering areas daily, and it’s not hard to see why climbers of all abilities, with a diversity of tastes, can easily find what they’re looking for in the valley. Oh, and the 60 or so double digit lines, plus ample projects, also means that even the strongest folks will stay busy for quite a while in the Okanagan.

On top of all that, staple areas like The Boulderfields, Cougar Canyon, and Skaha- yes, there’s great bouldering in Skaha- just to name a select few, are even starting to build their own reputations on a much larger stage. I mean, really, in North America, how often can you go to a place like The Boulderfields and have nearly 1,200 lines to yourself?

Salvador Olson on Fun in Acapulco Photo Caillum Smith (@preservedlight)
Salvador Olson on Fun in Acapulco. Photo Caillum Smith (@preservedlight)

Not long ago, a bouldering trip to the Okanagan Valley was little more than a fleeting thought for most people. In fact, it was only a few years back that I wrote the first Okanagan bouldering profile for this very publication in the hopes that we’d shed some light on the area’s potential. Now, though, the bouldering in the Okanagan demands some serious attention and needs much less introduction to be recognized.

Actually, it’s not uncommon anymore for climbers to make their maiden voyage to the area and immediately change their plans of visiting other, well-known destinations in western North America. Add to that the suggestions at this year’s Rock the Blocs from several well-traveled Canadian climbers, that the Okanagan may hold “the best bouldering in Canada,” and the prospect of a new Okanagan bouldering guide on the horizon in the next couple seasons, and it’s not hard to see why things are heating up. Yes, the wine, lakes, beaches, and weather may bring many people to the region, but the little rocks throughout the valley are sending people home even more satisfied.

– Andy White is an Okanagan bouldering guru. He is a leading developer and has helped put the area on the map. Follow his blog here and Instagram here. Also check out photographers Caillum Smith here and Ben Haley here.

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