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Paris 2016 World Championships Day Five: Sean McColl Wins Gold for Combined

Canadian photographer and climber Shane Murdoch brings us the following report from Paris. Scroll down for photos from day five.

Adam Ondra after winning gold. Photo Shane Murdoch
Adam Ondra after winning gold for Lead. Photo Shane Murdoch

Today was the final day at the IFSC Climbing World Championships.  We started off with the Women’s Boulder Final.  None of the athletes were able to solve the finishing move on problem number two.  Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi were both able to get two hands on the finish hold but were unable to control the swing.  After the first three problems, five competitors had two tops.  It was all going to be decided on the final problem.  The key to problem four was a dynamic, coordination move – deadpoint to a right hand side pull while simultaneously catching a left toe hook to control the move.  Petra Klingler (SUI) surprised herself when she stuck the move on her second try.  She topped the problem and took the lead with three tops in four attempts.  Miho Nonaka (JPN) was the only other athlete to top the final problem but she required more attempts and had to settle for silver.  Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) took the bronze with two tops in two attempts.

Next was the last Paraclimbing Final, Male AL-2 (leg amputees).  All the finalists put in strong performances on the very steep lead wall.  In the end, top qualifier, Albert Guardia Ferrer took the gold by eleven moves.  Julien Gasc (FRA) and Ivan German Pascual (ESP) had to settle for the silver and bronze.

Anna Tsyganova (RUS) took the gold in Women’s Speed with a time of 7.52 in the final race over Anouck Jaubert (FRA).  Luliia Kaplina (RUS) beat Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL) in the small final for the bronze medal.

The final event of the 2016 Climbing World Championships was the Men’s Lead Final.  The route included some crowd pleasing dynos and a campus 360.  Canada’s Sean McColl pulled the final lip after the long steep wall but was unable to complete the difficult travers to the finish hold.  The next few climbers were able to get a few moves higher, pushing Sean off the Lead podium.  Adam Ondra (CZE), the last climber out, battled his way through the traverse to top the route and win gold.  Jakob Schubert (AUT) finished second and Gautier Supper (FRA) third.

This competition includes a combined medal for athletes that compete in all three disciplines (lead, boulder and speed).  Sean McColl, defending gold medalist for combined from the 2014 IFSC World Championships, successfully defended his title.  Congratulations Sean!

Congratulations to all the Canadian athletes that competed this year.  You made us proud.