Each climbing discipline – from sport climbing to alpinism – has an optimal carabiner/quickdraw. The size, shape, gate type and technical specs like weight and strength factor into making a biner ideal for your personal climbing rack.
For most rock climbers, and also for new climbers choosing their first draws and looking for good all-around quickdraws, the selection of specialized biners can be daunting. Black Diamond makes it easier with their Quickpack sets of six draws.
A great choice from the available Quickpack, if you are an all-around climber or a beginner who needs a versatile and durable draw, is the PosiWire.
The top biner in the draw is a straight-gate Black Diamond Positron. This biner has a keylock gate that reduces the chance of snagging while racking gear or during a clip. It’s a tough biner that will put up with lots of metal-on metal interactions with bolt hangers and pitons.
The second biner is a Black Diamond HotWire. It’s a little lighter than the top biner and the double wire gate with its snag-reducing hood makes it easy to clip. The wire gate reduces the chance of gate flutter, a tendency under certain loading conditions for gates to flutter open and shut slightly. Wire gates tend to shed ice and snow more easily than conventional gates, a consideration for ice climbers and alpinists.
The dogbone is 18mm polyester and it comes in 12 and 18 cm lengths. If these are your first draws, get 12 cm to start. Polyester is strong and light and abrasion resistant. The rope-end HotWire biner is held in place by BD’s internal Straightjacket insert.
A great quickdraw that merits the attention of all-rounders and new climbers by offering the benefits of both wire and standard gate biners. (MSRP $94.95 USD, 12 cm: 618 g and 16 cm: 630 g. Closed Gate Strength: Positron: 25 kN, HotWire: 24 kN)