Our Favourite Sport Climbing Shoes for Summer 2024

Built on a moderately downturned asymmetric last, the Instinct VS delivers the performance climbers demand when attempting challenging routes and boulder problems. The shoe features a relatively soft midsole for sensitivity and smearing, and thanks to the thin slab of Vibram XS Edge rubber in the forefoot (XS Grip 2 for the women’s version), it can also deftly handle standing on small edges. The top of the shoe is shod with a generous patch of rubber for hooking, scumming, and other steep-angle shenanigans, while the single hook-and-loop closure strap ensures the shoe stays on during powerful heel-hooking. On the women’s model, Scarpa specs a somewhat lower-volume heel for a better and more secure fit.

With a downturned asymmetric last and a P3 tensioning system, the Solution delivers the precision and sensitivity necessary for difficult climbing. At the back of the shoe, Sportiva employs a unique molded heel cup that delivers consistent and predictable heel hooking. The forefoot, on the other hand, is covered by a large patch of rubber that allows for secure toe hooking and scumming. For the sole, Sportiva has wisely chosen to use Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber, which delivers additional grip on steeper ground or when smearing. These components, in combination with the Solution’s super-charged design, create a shoe that excels on steep sport routes and boulder problems.

With their highly asymmetric shape, aggressive downturn, and powerful tensioning, the Boosters are the shoes you want for difficult sport climbing and bouldering. Scarpa uses its sophisticated DTS-Tension system that provides different levels of tension on the inside and outside of the foot, ensuring optimal performance and support. A secondary benefit of the DTS system is that it ensures the shoe retains its shape and performance throughout its entire lifespan. At the front of the shoe, Scarpa has spec’d 1 mm Flexan midsole that provides enough support for technical edging without significantly impacting the sensitivity and smearing required on challenging routes. Other details worth noting include a massive rubber toe patch for hooking, a sticky 3.5 mm Vibram SXS Grip 2 outsole, and a unique PAF heel construction that reduces pressure without compromising fit.

High-level sport climbers and boulderers will appreciate the Scarpa Drago. This highly downturned and asymmetric shoe delivers exceptional precision and sensitivity for difficult climbing. Scarpa starts with a lightweight synthetic upper that maintains its shape during the shoe’s life but yields sufficiently to comfortably hug the climber’s foot. The shoe’s forefoot is swathed in ultra-grippy M50 rubber that helps focus power to the toes and provides unparalleled toe hooking. A small 1 mm thick Flexan midsole provides some support when venturing onto less steep terrain, and the Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber sole delivers consistent performance on a variety of holds.

With its supportive midsole and minimal break-in period, the Method is an ideal choice for intermediate climbers seeking performance without sacrificing comfort. The shoe features a moderately downturned last which ensure it will excel on vertical to gently overhanging routes and boulder problems. For secure toe hooking, Black Diamond specs a generous rubber patch on the forefoot, while heel-hooking duties are addressed with a three-dimensional molded heel cup. Finally, for consistent grip on a variety of rock and plastic, Black Diamond, uses 4.0 mm Black Label Fuse rubber on the men’s shoe and 3.25 mm for the women’s.

While this super-soft shoe excels at modern plastic climbing, it’s also right at home on overhanging sport routes where pulling and pawing with your feet is mandatory for success.
The shoe features Scarpa’s extremely sticky S-72 rubber compound for exceptional grip on even the most tenuous holds. From a fit perspective, Scarpa has employed a more relaxed last with a roomier toe box, a slight downturn, and gentle tensioning. The result is a comfortable fit that does not sacrifice performance. This an ideal shoe for intermediate climbers looking to upgrade their footwear or experienced climbers seeking a comfortable shoe for extended climbing sessions.

While the original Method was optimized for face climbing and small edges, some climbers longed for a softer version that was more sensitive and, therefore, more capable on steeper routes. Black Diamond clearly heard these requests and introduced the Method S. Built on a similar moderately downturned last with a sophisticated tensioned rand system and soft midsole, the Method S provides the power, sensitivity and control climbers demand on steeper sport climbs. Black Diamond has spec’d a breathable, foot-confirming engineered knit upper and added a single Velcro strap closure that simplifies entry while providing a sufficiently locked-down fit when heel hooking. Speaking of hooking, the Method S has a large forefoot rubber patch and a full-rubber heel for secure hooking and scumming. Finally, Black Diamond employs its Black Label Fuse rubber compound for the outsole, which provides and balanced blend of grip and durability.

One glance at the Shaman and you realize that this shoe is designed to excel at difficult climbing. The shoe has all the prerequisite construction details such as an aggressive downturned shape, powerful rand tensioning, asymmetry, and a large patch of toe-hooking rubber. Less obvious performance-enhancing features include the injection molded Love Bump that’s designed to keep your toes in a powerful yet comfortable climbing position as well as the Knuckle Box toe box shape that provides additional room for your toe knuckles. It’s also worth noting that, unlike some super-soft sport climbing shoes, the Shaman has a medium stiff midsole. This allows the shoe provide as surprising level of precision on small foot-holds while still having enough flex and sensitivity for steeper climbing or technical smearing.

Built on a slightly downturned asymmetric last, the Arpia provides the precision and control necessary for sport climbing without compromising the comfort many climbers demand. For the upper, Scarpa uses a stretch-resistant microfibre material with a luxuriously soft liner, ensuring a consistent fit and exceptional comfort. The addition of a thin Flexan midsole adds support when standing on small holds, while the TA-Tension system provides performance-boosting compression without the eye-watering pressure of some rand designs. A full rubber heel and a generous patch of super-sticky M50 rubber on the toe box ensure solid hooking, while the Dual opposing Velcro straps provide an easily adjustable locked-in fit. Finally, a full-length slab of sticky Vibram XS Grip 2 sole rubber provides consistent performance on steep and or insecure terrain. This is a great intermediate-climber sport climbing shoe.

Products reviewed in this article: