Improper Loading Led to Broken Carabiner

The CAMP Photon carabiner involved in Daniel Woods’ fall on First Round First Minute 5.15b was received at the CAMP/Cassin offices.

“Before starting our analysis it appeared already evident, by looking at the deformation of the carabiner, that when the fall occurred the carabiner was loaded in a transversal direction,” said CAMP/Cassin on a Facebook post below.

“We also observed that the hanger is positioned in a cavity on the First Round First Minute wall and this can favor an abnormal positioning of the carabiner which would eventually led to its deformation and breaking.”

The carabiner has been loaded in an abnormal direction as it was stuck between the hanger and the cavity.

CAMP/Cassin “encourages all climbers to be conscious of abnormalities with bolts and how they interact with gear, not to manipulate equipment, inspect gear found on routes and to read regularly the instruction manuals. You are invited to use your own equipment whose history you well know.”