Home > Gear

Metolius’ New Ultralight Master Cam

We’re excited about Metolius’ new Ultralight Master Cams and can’t wait to take them for a few laps.

The new Master Cam is 40 per cent lighter per set than other cam sets and they’re all hand built in Bend, Oregon with American-sourced materials.

One of Gripped editor Brandon Pullan’s biggest falls was onto a Metolius Master Cam in 2007. Having just purchased a new set for a month in the Bugaboos, Pullan’s second route of the trip was the classic Sunshine Crack 5.11.

On the enjoyable last pitch, a snowstorm started. Wanting to top out, Pullan climbed quickly to beat the inevitable wetness from melting snow. Near the top of the pitch, at the start of the backwards “C” crack with soaked granite under his toes, Pullan slipped.

He was lucky he’d found the perfect place for his Master Cam and after his 15-metre fall left him without any injuries, he dogged the rope. Leading into the “C” crack again, he fired extra pieces in and carefully watched his feet as he jammed a wet crack. He topped out and his longtime friend Andrew Gallant joined him.

With the Bugaboo season around the corner, Pullan can’t wait for a new set of even lighter Master Cams for his month-long trip.

Andrew Gallant on Sunshine Crack pre-storm.  Photo Brandon Pullan
Andrew Gallant on Sunshine Crack pre-storm. Photo Brandon Pullan

Check out the latest buyer's guide:

Sustainable Climbing: Environmentalism Spurs Innovation in Low-Footprint Gear

As climbers, it's crucial to support companies within the climbing gear industry that prioritize sustainability