Petzl Releases New Belay Device Called Neox

Petzl has released its highly anticipated new belay device called Neox, which looks a lot like a GriGri but has a new mechanism that helps to make lead belaying smoother. We’ve spent the past few weeks trying the Neox at several crags.

The device allows you to play out slack to the leader, or take it in, with far fewer incidents of unwanted cam engagement shorting them. When the climber falls, the wheel stops turning, the cam pivots and stops the rope. Once or twice, the wheel got caught when we were feeding slack, but it was easily disengaged. Falls are caught using the assisted-blocking principle of the Grigri.

The first GriGri hit shelves in 1991 and was updated in 2011 with the GriGri 2, again in 2017 with the GriGri+ and one last time in 2019. The two newer models had improved features that made the devices easier and safer to use. The GriGri has become one of the most common belay devices in use today.

The new Neox is not meant to replace the GriGri but is meant to be used by climbers looking for a better lead climbing belay experience. It has an integrated wheel that allows you to smoothly and quickly pay out slack to the climber. It works with ropes from 8.9 to 10.5 mm, has an ergonomic handle and weighs 235 grams, whereas the 2019 version of the GriGri weighs 175 grams.