The Arc’teryx Beta SL Jacket: A Review

Designed for adventures in the mountains, the Arc’teryx Beta SL jacket is a versatile piece of kit appropriate for a wide range of uses – from sport cragging to rugged alpine climbs. It is 100% waterproof and windproof while still being breathable and lightweight, easily packing down into a small pack. The Beta SL replaces the Arc’terx Beta Lightweight, swapping the 40-denier outer fabric for a more burly 40 by 70-denier material.

The Beta SL is made from the latest GORE-TEX ePE membrane, which is PFC-free, providing protection from water and wind while still being breathable. This membrane is laminated to a bio-based nylon face made with fibres derived from plants. Behind this membrane is a layer of GORE C-KNIT backer technology, promoting breathability and giving the inside of the jacket a soft, smooth feel that feels comfortable against the skin. The outside of the jacket is coated in a DWR finish to repel moisture.

The cuffs of the sleeves have Velco closures, the hood is helmet-compatible, and there are two external zippered hand pockets and one internal zippered pocket for stowing items. The jacket also contains pit zippers for venting heat. The hood is adjustable in the front and back, as is the bottom hem of the jacket. The Beta SL comes in six different colours in sizes from XS to XXL.

I recently had the chance to test out the Beta SL. I’ve worn the jacket in a wide range of applications – long hikes, trad climbs, sport climbs, multi-pitches – and in a variety of conditions – from beautiful weather to absolute downpours in temps from near 0°C to 25°C.

As expected from an Arc’teryx jacket at this price-point, its waterproofing and windproofing are second-to-none. It easily handles heavy rains without soaking through. What’s more impressive in my opinion is its breathability. On difficult approaches I didn’t feel like I was overheating, and when things did get a little warm, the pit zips vented any excess unwanted heat.

The construction of the jacket is top-notch, and you can tell that all of the small details have been carefully considered. The arm cuff Velco straps are burly and easy to manipulate with gloves on. The hood adjusts quickly with little fuss, allowing you to get that perfect fit whether or not you’re wearing a helmet. All the zippers are quality – too often expensive jackets are made with lousy zippers, which is definitely not the case on the Beta SL. The inside of the jacket has a nice feel, even when wearing just a t-shirt underneath. It doesn’t feel scratchy or sticky or plastic-y. The fleece chin guard is a nice touch of comfort when the jacket is fully zipped up over the bottom of the face.

I typically use ultra-light shells when climbing. These have the benefit weighing next to nothing and packing down into even the smallest multi-pitch packs. The downside of ultra-light jackets is that they lack durability. The Beta SL is still quite lightweight (340g /12oz), but it has a more rugged construction, allowing it to stand up to the use and abuse of rock climbing. I wasn’t concerned that I was going to rip the jacket or do any real lasting abrasion damage when rubbing the jacket against rock on granite or limestone climbs.

The jacket also has a perfect fit for climbing, hugging the body closely without limiting mobility, especially in the arms-overhead position. It’s a little crinkly sounding during movement, but less so than traditional three-layer shells, thanks to the GORE C-KNIT inner layer. The Beta SL packs down in its hood into a size smaller than a Nalgene bottle, easily fitting into any cragging pack. When conditions aren’t extreme – there’s little rain or wind in the forecast – I still prefer an ultra-light shell for multi-pitch climbing as they are lighter, more packable, and less expensive.

If you’re in the market for a new shell, and you don’t want to compromise on performance, comfort, durability, and packability, check out the Arc’teryx Beta SL.