The La Sportiva TX2 Evo Approach Shoe: A Review

The TX2 Evo is La Sportiva’s lightest weight model in their popular Traverse X line of approach shoes. While not as burly as the TX3 and TX4, the TX2 Evo trades off rugged support and durability for its ultra low weight, all while maintaining a high degree of comfort and climbing and scrambling performance. You’d be hard pressed to find a better shoe to bring up a multi-pitch with a technical approach or descent.

I’ve worn previous versions of the TX2 in the past, but this season, I got the chance to test out the TX2 Evo. I wore my pair on approaches and descents primarily in Squamish, but I also took them on hikes and sport climbing and bouldering trips elsewhere in Canada. I carried them up multi-pitches on my harness or in a small backpack.

The TX2 Evo has a unique construction. The lightweight upper is seamless – its tongue is fully integrated with the sides of the shoe – giving the shoe a snug, sock-like fit. The laces thread through a loop of tech cord, and the super sticky Vibram Idrogrip sole sports 3mm tread lugs, reducing weight in a modern, minimalist design. The TX2 Evo is partially made from recycled materials, and its tread is 100% resoleable, greatly expanding the life of the shoe.

Climbing performance

I found the TX2 Evo to climb and scramble really well. The Climbing Zone Platform – a climbing shoe-esque section of rubber at the front tip of the shoe – allows for precise edging and smears on fourth and fifth-class terrain. The lightweight sole is thin, but it offers decent rigidity and provides great sensitivity when climbing. The low profile toebox is great for cracks and a rubber toecap helps protect the shoe from the wears and tears of jamming. However, if you’re needing a shoe to be a fifth-class climbing workhorse, this isn’t the model I’d recommend due its lightweight and relatively less burly construction.

Hiking performance

Right out of the box, the TX2 Evo is a very comfortable shoe. Its light and nimble feel is almost more akin to a trail running shoe than a heavy duty hiking boot. The sock-like fit of the shoe can take some getting used to. I found sock choice was key to getting a perfect fit. A thin hiking or running sock feels best in the TX2. Thick, bulky, warm socks bunch up and can create a squeezing effect in the tongue-less shoe, meaning the TX2 Evo is  probably not the ideal choice for frigid temps.

The shoe is not as supportive as say the more robust TX3 or TX4, so some might find the shoe fatiguing on very long approaches. That is perhaps a matter of personal preference though, as some people enjoy more supportive shoes, while others like a more minimalist approach. I found the shoe perfect for my needs on long and short approaches in and around Squamish. The tread is super sticky on both dirt and rock, and the tight-spaced lacing allows you to dial in that perfect fit.

Packability

This aspect is where the TX2 Evo really shines. Combined with its light weight, the shoe compresses down significantly when squished, allowing it to be easily stowed in a small multi-pitch pack. The C2 Combo Cord – a small stretchy cord attached the heel of each shoe – allows you to quickly wrap the shoes tightly together, which is perfect for attaching the shoes to the back of your harness while multi-pitching. If you do a lot of multi-pitching with walk-off descents, there’s arguably no better approach/descent shoe than the TX2 Evo.

Durability

Through my use, I’ve noticed typical approach shoe wear and tear on the TX2 Evo. The knit upper shows some wear after months of use and the thin sole rubber erodes more quickly than beefier models (although the TX2 Evo can be easily resoled).

The lightweight lacing design is a particular area of reduced durability that I’ve found in all of my pairs of TX2s in recent years. The fact that the laces run through a loop of thin diameter tech cord rather than a plastic or metal eyelet creates a rope-on-rope rubbing action. I find the laces break rather quickly, but this isn’t a huge deal as new laces are cheap and easy to replace. I haven’t had any issues with the tech cord thank goodness, as this would be a pain to rethread.

The TX2 Evo is not the most durable approach shoe on the market, but that’s to be expected. A ultra-lightweight shoe cannot also be an ultra-durable shoe. A trade off has to be made between burly and supportive (and heavy) and lightweight, nimble, and packable. In the TX2 Evo, I think this is a trade-off well worth making. For the majority of climbers, this shoe will easily stand up to the rigors of everyday approaches and descents, and your multi-pitch harness or pack will feel lighter than ever.