10 Rules for Indoor Route Climbing Etiquette

If you’re somewhat new to climbing indoors, you might have noticed that there are some unwritten rules in route climbing culture. To speed up your learning curve with the often unwritten do’s and don’ts of the sport, here are 10 important rules for indoor route climbing etiquette.

1. Look up!

As you walk around the gym, always be aware of your surroundings. Climbers could be falling or lowering above you, and belayers can get tossed around and move unexpectedly. Some gyms have specific sections of rope climbing areas where you’re not allowed to walk – follow these rules.

In general, don’t walk under climbers or in between belayers and the wall, especially if they’re lead belaying. As you move around the gym, be alert and always be glancing up and around you to ensure you’re not getting in anyone’s way. Always walk – don’t run, and never sit, stand, or loiter under people climbing.

2. Keep your gear out of the way

This rule is also about safety. Do not place your water bottle, extra climbing shoes, chalk bag, or other belongings anywhere near where people are falling and belaying. The last thing you want is for a belayer to trip on your gear as they’re attempting to manage the rope for a tricky clip in decking territory. Keep your stuff in lockers/cubbies or attached to your harness.

3. Don’t distract belayers

While climbing in the gym is arguably safer than climbing outdoors, it is definitely not without its risks. Other than their own climbing skill and risk analysis, the #1 thing that keeps a climber safe is their belayer. An attentive belayer keeps falls soft and prevents ground-falls during the first few clips. Gyms are of course a fun place to socialize but before chatting up a belayer, wait until the climber is back on the ground. Top-roping is definitely more chill, but this rule still applies. Belayers need to watch and listen to their climber to keep them safe and happy. Don’t interrupt this process.

4. Wait your turn

Climbing is popular and gyms are super busy, especially at peak hours. Line ups can form on popular routes, especially in gyms with a small lead wall. If a pair is climbing on a route you want to try, ask them if you can go next when they’re done (but be sure not to distract the belayer!). It’s often common practice to then place your lead rope at the bottom of the route to indicate that you’re going after them. If there is already someone else lined up, ask the waiting climber if you can go after them, and then put your rope next to theirs on the ground.

Some gyms have this culture of placing ropes on the ground to indicate ordering – a practice often used at outdoor crags – while other gyms do not. Do whatever is appropriate at your gym, but always communicate with the climbers around you about who is going next. Don’t snake a route from someone who’s been waiting patiently for their turn on the wall.

5. Don’t hog the route

When it is your turn to climb, be efficient. Don’t dilly-dally – tie in, put your shoes on, and do your partner checks. If you fall, go ahead and take a few tries to figure out the tough section, but be mindful of others waiting below. If you’re wanting to spend a long session hangdogging the route, visit the gym at off-peak hours.

6. Take a look at the entire route before you climb it

Multiple routes often share anchors or features on the wall. Don’t jump on a route before looking at its full path up to the top. Many lines traverse unexpectedly and this might cause you to climb up and into someone already on the wall. If your problem converges or crosses another high on the wall, this could run you into another climber, likely ruining their climb and potentially creating a dangerous fall situation. Pay extra attention to aretes, as these lines tend to weave back and forth onto different faces of the wall.

7. Brush the holds

No one likes greasy, chalk-caked holds. Carry a brush on your chalk bag and use it regularly. When working a route, as you’re hanging in your harness resting, brush the holds around you. This will improve the quality of holds you’re about to use, and it’s also a great opportunity to slow down, look around, and learn the hand and foot holds around you.

As you lower down from a route, perhaps basking in the glory of your send, the last thing you’re probably thinking about is brushing the route. However, a quick brush of important or friction-dependent holds is a great way to perform some community service.

8. Don’t give unsolicited beta or climbing advice

Other than rules regarding safety, this piece of etiquette is arguably the most important on this list. Part of the fun of climbing is figuring out the sequence for a crux yourself. Unless someone asks, do not spray them with your beta or other climbing advice. Feel free to talk about the route, but don’t tell people how they should be climbing.

9. Keep the stoke high

Most people are at the gym to have a good time. Try to stay positive and avoid boisterous negative talk – “That route is so easy!” – “That’s a 5.10 not a 5.11” – “That route sucks”. Sure, go ahead and discuss these things quietly with your climbing partner, but don’t shout your thoughts across the gym. Also try not to loudly curse if a route is giving you frustration – there are likely kids around.

10. Tell staff about loose holds

A spinning hold is never fun to climb on and it can be damaging to the wall or dangerous to other climbers and belayers below. If you find a loose hold, tell a gym staff member about it. It can usually be fixed quickly and easily.