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Alex Megos Wins First Lead World Cup

Janja Garnbret and Alex Megos won Briancon Lead World Cup 2018

Alex Megos won his first-every Lead World Cup in Briancon this weekend, as Janja Garnbret won for the women.

It was one of the first times no one was timed out, which means that competitors have adapted to the new time lengths.

For Canada, Sean McColl was the only to make it Semis and did not make it to Finals.

Megos said the final route suited his style and this was Garnbret’s 12th World Cup win.

Results Female/Male
1. Janja Garnbret / Alex Megos
2. Jessica Pilz / Roman Desgranges
3. Anak Verhoeven / Domen Skofic

Post-Comp IFSC Report

Lead qualifications and semi-finals took place on Friday, followed by the final round of the third IFSC Lead World Cup in 2018 on Saturday.

The traditional resistance route-setting in Briançon required smart and strong climbing to connect all the static, technical moves. Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA), winner last week, began the high climbing and showed his high level of fitness by resting and chalking up at the first crux moves on the upper panel, falling a few holds from the top in the concluding traverse.

The 2017 Briançon winner Romain Desgranges (FRA) held on two moves more to take the lead in front of his home crowd, and 2018 season leader Jakob Schubert (AUT) fell in between their marks to place 4th.

First in qualifications with two tops and second in semi-finals, Megos conserved enough energy to solve the second crux traverse, falling at the final hold for his first IFSC World Cup victory. Domen Skofic of Slovenia matched Schubert’s score to win bronze on countback.

Four Slovenian women competed in finals, the first time since 2007, including Youth Olympic Games Buenos Aires 2018 qualified athlete Vita Lukan. Also on the climb to Buenos Aires, Nolwenn Arc kicked-off the women’s final by reaching the last section of the wall in front of her home crowd.

Fresh off her victory last week, Jessica Pilz (AUT) again cruised to the top in finals, and Anak Verhoeven (BEL) fell lunging to the top hold for a spot on the podium. Last to climb, 2017 season champion Garnbret of Slovenia showed her power by launching for the finishing jug from a lower foothold for her second victory in 2018 and sole possession of first place in the season rankings. For more results, visit the Briançon event page on the IFSC website.

With her 6th place finish in finals, Lukan matched Shuta Tanaka (JPN) for the best finish at an IFSC Lead World Cup by a Youth Olympic Games qualified athlete. Reigning youth world champion Sam Avezou of France, Lukan’s teammate Lucka Rakovec and Laura Rogora of Italy also competed in semi-finals with Arc and Lukan.

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