IFSC African Championships and the Final Five Olympic Spots
The African Continental Championship will take place in Cape Town from Dec. 17 to 20. Plus a list of the climbers already going to the Olympics
The final five places for climbers to participate in the 2021 Olympic Games will be decided at African Continental Championships. African countries have been invited to send their best climbers to compete.
Twenty men and 20 women will compete to qualify for the games in Tokyo.
The competition is held in the Olympics Combined format with all three climbing disciplines on the same day. First speed then boulder and finally lead. The result will be the product of the ranking scores for all three disciplines.
Speed:Â The speed climbing competition is simply a race up a 15m wall. The grip design and placement is standard on walls around the world to ensure uniformity and comparable times on any standard wall. The current record holder is Reza Alipourshenazandifar with a time of 5.48 sec.
Bouldering:Â Bouldering is the most physically taxing in terms of strength and co-ordination. The boulder comp is held over four boulders. Each climber has five minutes (Four minutes in the Final) to attempt each boulder with a five minute rest between each. There is a marked “zone hold” approximately halfway on th problem. The final score is judged by the number of problems topped and the number of zones reached. Ties are resolved by counting the number of attempts to the top and the zone with the fewest attempts winning.
Lead:Â The last discipline of the day will be the lead climbing (roped climbing) Climbers are given a single attempt to get as far along the route as they are able. Each successive hand grip scores a higher number with the climber reaching the highest point winning.
Climbers in Olympics
Below is the list of climbers who’ve secured their invitation to the 2021 Tokyo Olympics next summer. From Canada, Sean McColl and Alannah Yip will be competing.
Women
Miho Nonaka (JPN)
Janja Garnbret (SLO)
Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)
Petra Klingler (SUI)
Brooke Raboutou (USA)
Jessica Pilz (AUT)
Julia Chanourdie (FRA)
Mia Krampl (SLO)
Iuliia Kaplina (RUS)
Kyra Condie (USA)
Laura Rogora (ITA)
Song Yiling (CHN)
Alannah Yip (CAN)
Anouck Jaubert (FRA)
Men
Kai Harada (JPN)
Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)
Jakob Schubert (AUT)
Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)
Mickaël Mawem (FRA)
Alex Megos (GER)
Ludovico Fossali (ITA)
Sean McColl (CAN)
Adam Ondra (CZE)
Bassa Mawem (FRA)
Jan Hojer (GER)
Pan Yufei (CHN)
Alberto Ginés López (ESP)
Nathaniel Coleman (USA)
Colin Duffy (USA)
Michael Piccolruaz (ITA)
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