Janja Garnbret Wins Gold in Front of Home Crowd
Also taking home gold at the Lead World Cup in Koper was the young phenom Sorato Anraku
Photo by: Jan Virt/IFSC
On Saturday, the penultimate Lead World Cup of the 2023 season was held in Koper, Slovenia. To no one’s surprise, Janja Garnbret earned gold after being the only athlete to top the women’s route. In men’s, 2023 World Cup newcomer and standout Sorato Anraku similarly won gold after being the only competitor to top the men’s route.
With Saturday’s victory, Garnbret has won gold in each Lead World Cup she’s competed in this year – Innsbruck, Villars, and Koper. At the World Championships in Bern in August she also won gold in Boulder, silver in Lead, and gold in the new Olympic Combined format. After breaking her toe in training earlier this year, Garnbret had to sit out of the first few events of the season. Many wondered if the injury would prevent her from being as dominant as she’s been in previous seasons. With the 2023 season nearly at its close, she has proved any doubters wrong, looking more dominant than ever.
“Finally I got my revenge here in Koper,” said Garnbret after her victory. “I enjoyed it so much. From qualis to semis to finals, I don’t know if I have ever been as relaxed as I have been in this competition. I enjoyed climbing in front of a home crowd, with the support I really enjoyed, I’m so glad I finally got my first gold in Koper. I have to say thank you to all the kids for all the screaming, that really gave me extra motivation. I hope they enjoyed our show. I wish they will all train hard and join us one day on the stage here in Koper.”
Anraku has had mind-blowing success in 2023. The 16-year-old won the Overall Boulder World Cup title, having steady performances throughout the series including a gold medal in Innsbruck. Koper is his second gold medal this Lead season, his first being Briançon. At the World Championships, he won silver in Lead.
“I was so nervous before my climb, but I tried to put that to the back of my mind and just climb well,” said Sorato after topping the men’s route. “After my first Lead gold in Briançon I wanted to carry that on, and I have been training really hard. I wanted another gold in Koper and I have it now so I’m happy.”
Slovenia had a strong showing in the Koper women’s comp, with Garnbret taking first, Vita Lukan third, and Mia Krampl eighth. Joining Garnbret and Lukan on the podium was Japan’s Ai Mori, who won silver. She put up an impressive highpoint of 44+, well above her fellow competitors. Team USA’s Brooke Raboutou and Natalia Grossman did not end up competing in Koper.
Like Mori, American Jesse Grupper established a highpoint on the men’s route that no other competitor was close to reaching. It looked like gold might be his until Anraku climbed flawlessly and topped the route. All other other men fell much lower down on the route in a very bouldery section of the route characterized by slopey holds and odd foot positions. Grupper won silver and the Tokyo Olympic champion Alberto Ginés López earned third.
Men’s Results
- Sorato Anraku (TOP) [JPN]
- Jesse Grupper (42+) [USA]
- Alberto Ginés López (23) [ESP]
- Toby Roberts (21+) [GBR]
- Alex Megos (21+) [GER]
- Yannik Flohé (21) [GER]
- Sam Avezou (20+) [FRA]
- Luka Potocar (18+) [SLO]
Women’s Results
- Janja Garnbret (TOP) [SLO]
- Ai Mori (44+) [JPN]
- Vita Lukan (40+) [SLO]
- Chaehyun Seo (38+) [KOR]
- Natsuki Tanii (33+) [JPN]
- Laura Rogora (33+) [ITA]
- Nonoha Kume (31+) [JPN]
- Mia Krampl (11+) [SLO]
Koper Lead World Cup Livestream Replay
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