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New Source for Climbing Research

The Beta Angel Project is a platform designed to inspire and present research on this developing sport.

Research is integral to proper training. Over the last 40 years, climbing has seen a transformation from an outdoor recreational activity to an Olympic Sport. Though free climbing has been around for over a century, the introduction of competition climbing in 1986 accelerated its growth dramatically.

Until the 1980s, climbing was daring and defined by technical prowess instead of athletic power. Athletes such as Jerry Moffatt and Wolfgang Güllich pioneered a new age of hard rock climbing with their modern strategies. Not only did they add fitness to climbing, they changed the literal rules by which people climbed.

Bolted routes became common across all western countries and allowed athletes an infinity of attempts on the most difficult portions of their climbs. Though bolts were revolutionary, it would take the evolution of ethics to allow climbers isolated attempts on these ‘crux’ sections. Routes no longer required  the athlete to try from the ground every time they wished to pull onto the wall. Suddenly climbers could solve problems quickly and complete routes faster than before.

In addition to the changing ethical landscape of climbing, Moffett’s introduction of physical training in addition to climbing had real value. Pull-ups revolutionized the sport and blazed the way for Güllich’s Campus Board in 1988.

The introduction of competitive climbing also increased the demand for new training tools. These tools paired well with bouldering, and supported its popularization. Though bouldering had also been around for over a century, the modern discipline allowed for climbers to explore the limits of finger- and grip-strengths. Today, climbers have become so strong that that flashes of V14 and 5.15a have occured.


Though difficulty has increased by virtue of training, the science behind climbing is still relatively new. Companies such as Lattice Climbing and C4HP represent a new age of information-based coaching, each completing their own research in their pursuit of strength. They are not alone. In fact the last three years have seen an increase in the number of publications regarding climbing training.

The Beta Angel Project has curated a collection of these papers, each designed to educate climbers. According to their website, “The Beta Angel Project stems from a vision to inspire more rock climbing research, provide a platform for new ideas, translate research into practical application, and provide a view into the academic world of the climbing community.  The project is supported by individuals who are putting their time and energy into growing the rigor behind rock and competition climbing.”

A collection such as this indicates a strong future for climbing.

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Check out our new online education series. 3-hour courses covering the most cutting edge applications on topics like: finger training applications, tendon physiology and rehabilitation, blood flow restriction training, anatomy, and isometrics for sports performance. Each class is accompanied with supplemental material and capped at 9 participants so you can ask the questions you want answered. 📷@alexjohnson89 💥 💥 “I have been climbing for over 20 years and have trained in a variety of ways in that time. I have been following Tyler’s content for a short while now and have appreciated his exploratory and critical science-based approach to climbing training. He has presented a lot of great information, but I struggled to pull it all together myself. This online course simplified and contextualized his training concepts and presented them in a way that will allow me to create my own training program and help me create programs for others as well. It was absolutely worth the time and cost.” -Josh Bochniak Owner, Scrapyard Climbing Collective

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COACHING THE COACHES!! 🤓🤓🤓 We’ve been asked about this for quite some time, so we’re extremely psyched to finally put it in the diary. Sorry we’ve kept you all waiting! This one’s pretty unique as it’s being run by us, for all you coaches out there – we want to share more of a “professional level” of experience and context to the coaching process. It’s longer than other webinars and will involve both prepared and live Q&A in the session. 👉👉 Detail of webinar date and time – 7:30pm BST 3rd June 2020 In this webinar @tompaulrandall and @ollietorr, will be sharing their professional coaching experiences with a “coach-only” audience. What is unique about this webinar, is that it’s delivered BY coaches FOR coaches, so the content will be more oriented towards the working professional. They’re going to be sharing the wealth of their experience from the front line, covering some of the main topics of contention in the coaching industry. This webinar will be slightly longer (90 mins) than the usual format and will have two of the main topics pre-determined so attendees know specifically what’s on offer. 🔥🔥Hot topic 1: Coaching junior athletes 🔥🔥Hot topic 2: How to work remotely with clients 🔥🔥Open topics: By request, answered live in the webinar Both topics 1 & 2, will be run in the format of a discussion by Tom and Ollie on their main experiences within these two areas, sharing their insights to some of the most important and effective ways to work with climbers. Each topic will include a Q&A section so you are able to delve deeper and understand the nuances of the detail. The final “open” topic will be decided on the basis of topics which are requested from each attendee ahead of the event. After each webinar, you will be sent a link to the recording of the webinar along with a resource sheet detailing the topics covered. Please note that this webinar is for coaches ONLY. We expect and welcome attendance from both junior and adult climbing coaches! #climbingtraining #moonboard #climbing_is_my_passion #tradclimbing #sportclimbing #bouldering #gritstone #ukclimbing #indoorclimbing #latticetraining #latticer #climbing_lovers #climbingcoach

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