Home > Indoor Climbing

Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret are First Into Finals

The exceptional round was dominated by Team Japan, but Garnbret and Ondra qualified in first position. Americans Coleman and Grossman qualify.

The Semi-final round concluded in Meiningen this morning. Although 40 athletes qualified for the event only 12 will move onto the finals round beginning at 1:15 pm EST with the livestream starting at 12:40. Be sure to watch here.

While the Slovenian Team dominated the qualifying round, Team Japan definitively won the men’s category this morning. For the me,Team Japan occupied four of the six positions heading into finals while Akiyo Noguchi placed third heading into her category’s final round of competition.

Team Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret and the Czech Team’s Adam Ondra placed first after strong performances. Ondra topped three of his four boulders, beating his opponents by one full top. Garnbret topped four of four boulders in five attempts winning by a full top and a full zone.

Heading into finals, Garnbret looks like she might operate on another level; however, competition involve many tactics that include leaving something in reserve for the final round of competition.

Furthermore, Ondra’s prowess in the men’s field shows great improvement in the competition style from 2019 and has set him up for a strong season and potentially a strong Olympic Games.

Both Garnbret and Ondra also won their qualifying rounds.

Although these two made waves for their performances, American climbers Natalia Grossman and Nathaniel Coleman also made an impact. These two will move on to Finals and cement themselves as the best competition boulderers, at this moment, from the United States.

This statement comes as a function of the qualifying round as well as the Team USA Climbing National Team Trials. This speaks volumes for Coleman’s chances in Tokyo as he offers proficiency in multiple disciplines.

Perhaps the most shocking result o the entire competition comes from Team France and their Oriane Bertone. Bertone received attention last year for establishing Satan I Helvete low start last year. The difficult font problem made Bertone one of the strongest young outdoor climbers in the world. And brought her into the spotlight. She has continued to progress in competition, since then, and now leads Team France into the final round of competition.

Women Heading to Finals:

1 – Janja Garnbret (SLO)

2 – Oriane Bertone (FRA)

3 – Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)

4 – Natalia Grossman (USA)

5 – Vita Lukan (SLO)

6 – Katja Debevec (SLO)

Men Heading to Finals:

1 – Adam Ondra (CZE)

2 – Tomoaki Takata (JPN)

3 – Yoshiyuki Ogata (JPN)

4 – Sohta Amagasa (JPN)

5 – Nathaniel Coleman (USA)

6 – Kokoro Fujii (JPN)

Featured image of Adam Ondra  by Peter Chodr.